Ahoy fellow Quickstep owners. Here is the spot to exchange ideas, questions and answers, and your latest news with other Quickstep owners. If you have photos or stories to post on the site, please email them to Quickstep21@gmail.com
Scuttlebutt
Quickstep Owners' Group
Home port for Quickstep sailboats.
I am looking at a 1989 Q-24 for sale. Is the keel lead encapsulated or bolt on? What is the reasonable maximum wind and wave height before one is in race mode and riding the rails? I have searched the web and did not find an answer. Thanks! Daymark
Hi guys- I took my mast down for the season- has anyone had theirs painted? Any feedback would be appreciated. Did you use Awlgrip? DIY? Powdercoat? Costs? How does it hold up?
Not an opinion here just some links. Awlgrip is a process. Read and understand Awlgrips online pubs before mixing or spraying. It is all a timed event. You must be prepared….prep work, prep work…..
https://www.triton381.com/projects/maintenance/mastpaint1.htm
https://www.besttechnologyinc.com/surface-finishing/what-is-alodine-chem-film-chromate-conversion-coating/
Hi folks. I just bought a Scout today. Been looking for a small sailboat for a while and everything I’ve been finding is either a piece of crap or is above what I was willing to pay. Or both.
This looks like a nice little boat. Excellent shape, bottom has almost no scratches on it and the sails are clean with bright colors. Needs cleaning, but that’s nothing. Nice clean trailer. Lights don’t work, but that’s easy.
The only issue is the top of the rudder, where the bolt goes through, is split and it goes down about a foot. Could this be fixed with a couple of stainless mending plates or should I remove the hardware, cut along the split cleanly and glue it? The wood on either side of the split looks sound, so I’m leaning toward the glue repair.
I like the idea that I’ve got a little boat that wasn’t mass-produced and was made less than 50 miles from my house.
Looking forward to springtime and learning to sail again.
Hey there – we have a scout too, sadly it’s been gathering dust in my garage but I plan to make use of it again someday once I have a little more time or retire.
But what Dave just said made me convinced I need to keep her.
Be well!
Looking for information on the 11 foot quicksilver Scout. Is anyone have any first-hand knowledge on how well they sail, given their size. There is one for sale currently on craigslist at Bow, NH.
Hello, it’s John Dyson from New York. Does anyone know who makes the stanchions on the Quickstep 24? I’m guessing it’s Schaefer Marine since a lot of the other hardware on the boat is Schaefer. One of my stanchions was bent when the boat went against the dock during Isaias.
Late reply, sorry.
Check Rigrite.com. they will set you up. See this link for a start. Rigrite us the best.
https://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Stanchions_&_Bases/Stanchions_SS_1.php#1_OD_Tapered_SS_Stanchions
Thanks Chris, I wish I had known this sooner. I ended up buying 3 different stanchion bases online before I found one that matched the broken one. They are all similar dimensions but the details differ. The one I think matches is from Suncor.
Sorry, if you post in the Q24 section and I think more people will see. You have to scroll all the way down thru all the posts to open a new post. Not a big deal but not obvious either. I’ve used Rigrite for many years and boats. They’re the best. Check them out at their main website to see all they offer. https://rigrite.com. Great place but poor website. Much more than the link I pasted.
Good to know the Suncor matches. Good stainless.
This will be my first time stepping the mast on my Q24. Any advice would be helpful! Thanks.
Not really, I get the boatyard to do this. They put a cradle under the spreaders and lift the mast vertically. They are not that careful but so far have not hurt anything.
Recently purchased a Quickstep 24, “SOL,” 1988. Currently, on stands in E. Boston. Just finished the bottom sanding. More to follow as I get to know her.
Welcome Bill! Check over the q24 fleet area of this site for all 24 comments. Uou gave to scroll down to the very bottom to add comments…only takes a few seconds at most.
I need a new outboard- what size shaft is best? Has anyone bought the ” sail pro” models? With alternator ling shaft and larger prop? Thoughts?
Quickstep 24 owners:
Does anyone have experience adding a boom vang to a Q24? I have just begun sailing a 24 out of Edgartown, MA. The daily routine involves running out into Nantucket Sound to set up an exhilarating beat for home. Off the wind, the mainsail shape is frustrating, as the boom rises and the sail plows against the spreaders. There is not much vertical clearance between the boom and the cabin top, and a vang at such a shallow angle will develop a great deal of force. What are the pros and cons? How are the end fastenings achieved? Is there concern for the strength of the gooseneck? Your insights will be much appreciates
Don: aside from a vang assm. (blocks and line, don’t go overboard,1/4″ line is more than you will ever need) you need a boom bail, I think Ronstan makes a nice collection at the best prices. and the lower vang attachment for the DM500 mast section which used to be available from Dwyer Mast but I am not seeing it on their site any more. Try giving them a call and see what they can do or suggest. Other sources are available though will require more study I like my vang setup but use it only occasionally in constant winds. It is good for downwind as you suggest but you must pay strict attention for the unintentional gybe more than ever because the boom is now riding very low and will take you teeth out in a jiffy. Or worse.
associated links
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=20&cat1Name=Masts&familyID=43&familyName=DM%2D500+Mast
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=9&familyName=Bails
The gooseneck is not a concern at all assuming you have the standard Q setup.
Hi Don, I’m using a Garhauer vang. I think it has 3/8 inch line which is probably a overkill. John
Hi All Looking for bridge clearance for Q 24.
Anybody have a number?
32′ give or take.
Mast is 27’5″ plus ant/vane. Topsides , another 4′.
Thanks Chris!
I bought a Quickstep 24 late in the season 2017 on Deer Isle Me (within eyesight of the Brooklin Boat Yard). ’88 Hull 155. Does anyone know which manufacturer built this one? I think there were 4 builders over the years. BTW, you can buy the original build plans by Ted Brewer. He is in his upper 80’s now and will sell the complete set of build plans, which are the full sized drawings for about $100. I ordered a set and they are due to me next week. Should be interesting. Dave G
LNUKS=Quickstep Yachts
Your hull ID number HIN tells it all.
The last numbers are the year of birth. The first letters are the builder. Q24’s were built by several builders. See the following website to understand HIN numbers http://www.hinsearchplus.com/hs_userguide.aspx
See this website for list of builders. http://uscgboating.org/content/manufacturers-identification.php
Quickstep 24’s were built by several builders mostly Dyer, C.E. Ryder, and a few by Shannon and the last ones by Quickstep which was really a builder name given for boats built by TPI (tillotson pearson) who is the builder of Jboats and many others. No longer building boats however they moved on to higher tech stuff.
So given this and the websites above you can find Dyer which is really the Anchorage has a builder code of DYE.
C.E. Ryder has a builder code of CER
Shannon has a builder code of NHN…long story basically someone already had SBC in 1975.
Lastly LNUKS builder code is Quickstep Yachts.
LNUKS=Quickstep Yachts
Your hull ID number HIN tells it all.
Dave, regarding HIN,s, the last numbers are the year of birth. The first letters are the builder. See the following website to understand HIN numbers http://www.hinsearchplus.com/hs_userguide.aspx
See this website for list of builders. http://uscgboating.org/content/manufacturers-identification.php
Quickstep 24’s were built by several builders mostly Dyer, C.E. Ryder, and a few by Shannon and the last ones by Quickstep which was really a builder name given for Quickstep boats built by TPI (tillotson pearson) who is the builder of Jboats and many others including early Alerion 28’s.. No longer building boats however they moved on to higher tech stuff like giant windmilll generator blades etc.
So given this and the websites above you can find Dyer which is really the Anchorage has a builder code of DYE.
C.E. Ryder has a builder code of CER
Shannon has a builder code of NHN…long story basically someone already had SBC in 1975.
Lastly LNUKS builder code is Quickstep Yachts.
QUICKSTEP 21 for sale in Mass. 6300USD
I know nothing about 21’s but thought I’d post the link. Basic bleach bottle looks with trailer.
Duh..forgot the link
https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/Quickstep-21-3241527/Mattapoisett/MA/United-States?refSource=standard%20listing
no longer for sale
My 6 hp 2 stroke was getting old and was quite loud so I upgraded to 8 hp Merc 4 stroke but it is almost as bad. I think the motor cavity is an echo chamber- even motoring w/ the lid up it is so loud. Has anyone applied sound deadening material to the insides? I have researched and seen some peel & stick foam sheets for this purpose (for autos and industrial applications) Any thoughts?
James, I was given some engine box lining material by a friend some years ago which I used for a season. It was an egg crate type of foam mounted on a brown backing which was said to be lead sound deadening material. I cut it to shape and used contact cement to cover the underside of the well cover. Results were noticable but not so great. At the time I had a H onda 8, the older model, a BF 8. After a while the contact cement gave out from the heat of the sun on the cover and the engines heat too so I removed it intending to work on improving it but never did. I subsequently bought a Tohatsu 8hp engine which is was even noiser than the Honda. I also tried a canvas shield which hung down from the leading edge of the well cover but found the engine was suffocating and ended up deep sixing that too. So, in the end, I have a new and noisier Tohatsu which I just learned to enjoy the sound of. I call it the ‘sound of quality’. On a side note, there is a small hole where exhaust comes out of the engine shaft before it begins exiting underwater as well as when it is exhausting under water too. That small hole is the source of a lot of the noise. Its a sort of relief valve I think so there is not a lot of backpressure at low rpm. I thought of blocking it but engines all make too much noise and I just regard them as a necessary evil at this point. Torqueedo time?
Thanks for saving me the time and effort! Someday a Torqueedo will probably do the job. I saw a refit of a Q 24 on long Island where the guy had a diesel inboard installed- pretty cool but it cost more than i paid for my entire boat!
Did a bit of poking around on that exhaust hole I mentioned. Follow along on this link. I’m gonna try the tube idea led outside the well and see what results. I know that some good will result. Chris
http://www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-12725.html
While I believe this scuttlebutt section is the right place to post, most 24 posts are in the Q24 Fleet section.
I’ve just listed my Quickstep 24 on boats.com. .The boat has been repainted with a navy blue algrip in 2016 , has a permanent head, a Yamaha 9.9 engine with low hours , a new asymmetrical sail , new rolling furler , all teak is maintained yearly , custom teak table and cushions for the cockpit. The boat is in Oyster Bay , NY
Contact Johnbquirk@yahoo.com
Hi Bill,
It has been a long time, but finally the Quickstep21 is on stands at a marina. Unfortunately there is no pin or any hardware to hold the centerboard in place. Since there are no instructions to be found anywhere as far as I know, the marina is going to set the centerboard based on their experience with other boats. I hope that is good enough.
The jib sail is on a roller furling and the sail is torn to bits. The jib sheet in/on the roller furling is stuck at the top and I have been unable to lower the sail. I did not have time to figure it out when I was there and the marina is a long way away. I will not be able to get back o the marina for about two weeks and I would like to work on getting a new/used jib now. So can anyone tell me what size jib need?
Any information will be helpful.
Thanks,
Tom
Bill
Thank you for posting the article. And thanks to Steve Bodine for his help.
The sail number is 16 unless the Q on the sail is upside down; then its boat #91. Its #16.
The pictures in your keel/centerboard article are great for me. I did not know how the swing keel pin (rod/bar) was held in place since I have never seen the bottom of the boat. The pictures appear to show plates (pivot blocks?) screwed to the bottom of the fixed part of the keel that I assume hold each end of the pivot pin in place.
I just measured the pin hole in my swing keel (the keel was in a shed and has never been installed) and the dia. of the hole is about 63/64. That makes a pretty tight fit if the pin is supposed to be one inch dia.
Do you remember what size the pin is and, even though you did not need a new one, where do you get a new one? I suppose marinas have them in stock?
Is there any kind of sleeve installed in the hole in the swing keel before installing the pin?
You thought about it, but did not install the plastic washer spacers. What are your thoughts now?
The cord attached to the swing keel must be the pendant you replaced? I assume the pendant cord is supposed to run through the hole in the floor in the cockpit near the cabin entrance and I assume a cleat or a cam. All I have is a hole in the floor. It’s hard to believe the boat originally came this way, but it must have.
Something else funny – the cabin entrance was a single piece of very weathered and delaminated plywood. When I cleaned the boat I found in one of the storage holes, a three piece door wrapped in pieces of rug. It was brand new, never used. Why?
I emailed someone who is selling a Quickstep 21 in Canada to see if he has an owner’s manual. No answer so far.
Hope I am not asking too many questions.
Tom
Hi again Tom,
Here are some random thoughts for you.
First, is the centerboard pin on the boat? You mentioned that you’d not seen the bottom of the keel. Maybe the former owner removed the centerboard but replaced the pin in the keel for “safekeeping.” It’s possible. Maybe you’ll be lucky.
As for spacers, I don’t know if Dick (the fellow who wrote the article) ever got around to adding them. I don’t have any on my boat and the centerboard slapping can be annoying at times. Yet, I share the concern about the board getting stuck up or down. We fight Zebra mussels and they can get in everywhere. For the time being, I’m leaving things as they are. I had the boat hoisted for a keel and board inspection a year ago and all was fine.
The centerboard pendant does run through the tube out into the cockpit. On our boat there is a simple cleat right above the point where the tube exits the cockpit sole. It’s on the after edge of what passes as a bridge deck or step. It’s not in the way there and works fine.
Sounds like you found the boat’s real weather boards. That’s lucky. We use ours all the time. I do have a plywood panel that I made to use when I’m refinishing the teak boards. Otherwise, I like the three piece units.
We bought our boat new, and there was no owners’ manual. You’ll just have to keep a notebook of material that you discover. One of the joys of good old boat ownership!
Cheers,
Bill
Thank you for your quick responce..
Any help I can get is appreciated: links to sites, scans and emails, old fashion post office snail mail, etc.
The main sail is torn, about a five foot horizontal rip about half way up. Does anyone have suggestions for the best places for repair or replacement?
Thank you,
Tom
Hello Tom and welcome to the fleet! I posted the article Steve mentioned on the Fleet News page where my postings appear. I hope it is helpful.
Do you know which hull number you own? Is there a sail number on the main? I’m trying to keep track of each Q21, so if you don’t mind sending a note with the information that would be great.
As for the sail, I assume there is a local sailmaker in your area who can look at it, but my guess is, that if it’s the original sail (possibly by Hood) you’re probably better off having a new sail cut. We’re on our second main. It’s beginning to show its age and our boat is the same age as yours. Our original sail was by Hood and the current sail was built by Sobstad.
Keep writing as questions arise. The guys who follow this site know a great deal and can help alot. I learn great stuff all the time.
All the best,
Bill
I just purchased a 1989 Quickstep 21. The boat came with a house and the purchaser of the house sold the boat to me. The boat is in the water and the swing keel has never been installed so I guess the original boat owner never sailed it out very far into the Chesapeake Bay. Unfortunately, the pin to hold the keel in place is missing and the marinas can find not information about it.
I am a novice at sailing and would like to know more about this boat. Is there an owner’s manual available anywhere?
Thanks.
Tom
Hi Tom,
I personally can’t help you with the details for which you are looking, but one former Quickstep 21 owner did some work on his keel and centerboard. He posted an interesting article on Bill’s first Quickstep Blog Site. It references the particulars you would need to know (particularly near the end of his post). Bill’s original Blog is no longer available on line, but I have a copy of the owner’s posting. Perhaps Bill or I could get that to you. Another possibility is that the former owner, Dick, follows this blog and will see your question and respond to you.
Steve B.
Quickstep 11
I have a quickstep 24 and am interested in installing a sunshade (a dodger with only the top) just aft of the cabin. HAs anyone tried and if so do you still have frame measurements? Thanks
Dodger or Bimini? Boom is kind of low for a Bimini other than at anchor. Dodger would only shade you if you were standing on the companionway step. Not sure where you would fold a Bimini frame either. Anyway…check out this link and associated links. Teaches you how to measure.
Bimini’s are available in stock sizes from many suppliers or custom from a canvas shop…300 vs 1500 plus though quality will vary. Bimini sample link follows
http://www.overtons.com/Boating-Marine/Bimini-Tops-T-Tops-Shades/?icID=HPFC7
To Quickstep Group,
On Bill’s old Quickstep site ( http://quickstep21.home.insightbb.com/Modifications.htm ) Bill described a modification on the Quickstep rudder that provided the flexibility to both keep the rudder in the full down position and allow for kicking up if the rudder hit an obstruction. My question to Bill is, do you still use this system or have you any updated improvements to it?
I ask because I may be in a situation this season of mooring in a spot subject to extreme tides (lows usually requiring that both the rudder and CB be pulled up) and moderate to strong currents. In the past I have been confident enough with water depths to leave the rudder tightly screwed down. Seeing Bill’s modification and thinking a slightly more adaptable solution might be useful I came up with the following.
” https://goo.gl/photos/tTnfSgBCLnfbv7618 ”
Any comments or criticisms would be welcome. Thanks, Steve B.
Hi Steve,
I’ve actually gone in the opposite direction. The water here has become so deep, I never worry about needing the kick up rudder. I’ve got over 15 feet at the dock! I now use a pin to keep it full down. It’s a quick release pin, so if I need to swing the rudder up, I can. Did your modification work out?
Two questions:
1). Thoughts about replacing lifelines. The vinyl coating on our QS21’s lifelines look brittle, cracked and tired. Is replacement a DIY job? Looking for comments or suggestions about materials, suppliers, method, technique etc.
2). Before we bought her, someone stepped on the companionway hatch. It (and frankly the teak “runners”) need repair/replacement. I certain someone has encountered this – any suggestions?
Best,
Tom and Kristen Siebenhuhner
BlueMoon #33
Hi Tom and Kristen!
Our boat’s lifelines faced the same issue. I was concerned about corrosion beneath the vinyl, so I peeled a bit of it off and took a look. The stainless was in great shape, so I removed all of the vinyl and reinstalled the lines. They’ve worked just fine as bare wire although some may prefer a vinyl covering which is easier to grab. One thing is for sure- the lines look much better without the cracked and yellow vinyl.
As for the companionway hatch, I’ve reinforced ours with fiberglass cloth and epoxy from the inside and fixed exterior cracks with epoxy and filler. After sanding, I repainted the whole hatch with an Interlux topside paint. It was a good fix. The teak slides and hatch guides are a problem. After replacing them once with teak only to have them get cracked again, I chose to fabricate replacements using Starboard, a plastic marine lumber from West Marine. I also replaced the teak restraints for the fuel locker in the cockpit with Starboard. None of it is as pretty as the teak, but I don’t mind the look. I’ll post some photos of the changes on my Fleet News page.
Thanks for the photos, too. Enjoy the season!
After a busy summer, I’ve finally updated the Quickstep site. I’d like to add some stories or pictures about you and your boats, so if you’d like to share photos or stories, please email them to me at Quickstep21@gmail.com. Enjoy the remainder of the sailing season!
fandango was launched yesterday but the centerboard is stuck in the up position. short of hauling at a boatyard does anyone have a suggestion?
Hi Monty. I haven’t had the problem, but if your board is anything like ours, it probably moves a bit from side to side as you sail with the board drawn up. You can sometimes hear it knock around a bit. I think that I’d loosen the pendant a bit- just enough so that the board can drop a couple of inches when it’s loose, and go sailing. Maybe the rocking will free it up. I don’t know if that will work, but at least you’ll get in a nice sail.
I had our boat lifted off the trailer before last season began and had the crew check the pivot and pendant to make sure all was well. It was. We don’t have barnacles to deal with, but zebra mussels are almost as bad. It had been a long time since we’d seen the board out of the water, so it was an expense I thought I should pay considering the boat’s age.
Another thought is to go swimming and see if you can carefully pry the board loose. Again, I’d loosen the pendant just a few inches and see if jiggling the board frees it up. The effort would be refreshing, if nothing else.
Good luck with it!
thanks for your reply. too early to go swimming. i may haul her not only to free the centerboard but also to paint whats never been painted. monty morris, s v fandango
Does anyone here have any information about a quickstep that is about 11 feet long? I was just given one and am looking for more information on it.
You might check out the brochure for the Quickstep Scout that is posted on this site. Sounds like you might have one. There are a couple of Scout owners who’ve posted here before and they might be able to give you more information about the boat.
I’m looking at buying a Quickstep 19. How effective is the stub keel, and what is the windward performance like? Any comments from Quickstep 19 owners would be appreciated.
Hi Paul! We don’t have a 19, but usually sail our 21 without dropping the steel centerboard, relying only on the shoal draft keel. We are generally happy with the windward performance of the boat. The 19 might perform equally well. Maybe some of the other owners of 21’s can comment on their experiences, too.
“Fandango” is moored in Marblehead and gets to go sailing almost every day.
Wish it were more so. We sail Bailero…Hull #11 out of Apponaug RI.
7.6.14 Ahoy, anyone aboard. I am Bill O’Connor, owner of Carina the Quickstep 21 #28. Is this site still live? bill@workingwellvt.com
Not very alive, it would appear. We finally got the Scout in the water this weekend and managed to sail it. ‘Hope you had a good 4th.
Hi Dale
We have a new to us scout and we do not seem to have the tiller on properly. Would you mind sharing a photo that shows how it should be mounted?
Sandra; ‘Sorry I was so slow – I’ve been out of town. I took a picture but have no idea how to post it. If you know how, pass that along, or send a picture of the tiller you have – maybe I can see the issue. Is it possible that the rudder is in the kickup position? I disassembled ours to refinish it, and found the reassembly confusing, but luckily had taken some snapshots of it just in case 🙂
Thanks Dale
Sorry this ended up in my spam folder.
Can you email me the photo?
Here is my address –
34newbdwy@gmail.com
We did the same as you and I think we reassembled it back incorrectly.
Does your tiller remain in an up position when at dock?
Sandy
I sent the images to your pers email – hope you got them OK
Hi Dale…would love to see photos of your Scout. If it’s as well built as the 21, it must be a great little boat.
do you know how to post images?
Hi Dale,
Try sending the pictures to me at Quickstep21@gmail.com and I’ll try to post them. I have to admit that I’m a lousy blogger and don’t spend enough time monitoring this site. I will also try to find out how you and others can post pictures directly and when I do, I’ll post the instructions.
It’s been great sailing here the last week or so.
Cheers,
Bill
We just acquired a Quickstep Scout (11ft). It has been stored outdoors, upside down for a few years, and the bottom paint is dead, but the topsides are fine and the spars and sails were stored indoors and look great.
my Q 21 trailer is shot and im looking for a budget replacement. monty morris, marblehead ma. any ideas?
Monty…have you checked out Boston Craig’s List…boats/trailers?
Just saw this one tonight…http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/boa/3873320405.html
Another question….Have any of you removed your rub rail to inspect your deck to hull joint (chalking and screws)? Again any comments would be very welcome. I’m trying to track down a slight leak. Thanks.
Steve B
Hull #11
Bailero
I’m planning on resealing my chainplates this spring. Last time (two years ago) I used Life-Calk polysulfide sealant by BoatLife. Results we “~OK”. I thought I might try butyl tape this time. Have any of you Quickstep owners out there ever tried it? Any suggestions on the subject are welcome!
Thanks,
Steve B
Hull #11
Bailero
my wife and i bought our quicksrep 21 in falmouth me in 2008 and motior sailed her down to our home in marblehead ma. she is hull no 12, built by tillotson pearson in bristol r i in 1989 and named fandango. she has a cdi flexible jib furler and a suzuki 9.9 outboard on a heavy duty lowerable bracket. its really too big and ugly but it has a self starter and it keeps the boat battery charged.. we mostly daysail her but she has made one trip to newport r i by trailer and we cruised in narragansett bay for 4 days. unfortunately we now have a much smaller car, a honda crv and apart from launching and hauling in low gear i wouldnt attempt a lengthy road trip.when we raise or lower the mast we use a gin pole and the crank on the trailer, which works pretty well. monty morris marblehead ma
We have just acquired a Quickstep 21… She appears to be in good condition and with some TLC will be great. Where we are a little short is in regard to documentation (OEM manuals, schematics, etc). Any thoughts?
Hello Kristen!
Welcome to the group! We bought our Q21 new, and there were no manuals, etc. except for those that came with the outboard and the furling system. Quickstep didn’t provide anything. If you need some information, let me know and I’ll try to get it to you. Which boat did you buy?
All the best!
Launched Baïlèro last week. Was wondering while out on our first sail of the season….what sort of heeling angles in other Quickstep 21 owners’ experiences have been found comfortable and practical in terms of safety and performance? Would love to hear others’ thoughts on this or any other topics specific to handling their Quickstep.
https://picasaweb.google.com/smjbodine/BaileroLaunch2012?authkey=Gv1sRgCOXCuPzUmY3E_wE
Bailero looks great. Congratulations! Sarah started her 23rd season two weeks ago. We had a lot of spring work to do to get her ready, so we were a bit slow getting underway. We’ll post some photos soon.
The boats have a real sweet spot when sailing to windward that you’ll notice pretty quickly. I don’t know the exact angle, but it’s moderate and very easy to sense. We’ve found that pushing her too far beyond that makes her slow. In fact, as the wind pipes up, she sails just as fast and much easier with the main reefed. Weather helm can be a problem, particularly if your rudder blade kicks up even a little bit. Make sure it remains straight. Have a great season!
Thanks Innkeeper…looking forward to seeing some photos of Sarah. Followed your advice and see exactly what you mean.
So glad we have this blog to share our experiences with our Quicksteps! Our Quickstep 21 is Baïlèro (Hull # 11). We rescued Baïlèro from demolition late in 2009. She had been abandoned since 2005 and had suffered greatly from four years of neglect. Last June we finally launched her and had a good season of sailing out of Cowesett in Narragansett Bay, RI. For those of you interested, the link below is a first installment of some photos of Baïlèro’s rennovation.
https://picasaweb.google.com/smjbodine/FindingTheQuickstepAndComingHome?authkey=Gv1sRgCMiTzfPVr-jn7QE
Hi again Tom,
Here are some random thoughts for you.
First, is the centerboard pin on the boat? You mentioned that you’d not seen the bottom of the keel. Maybe the former owner removed the centerboard but replaced the pin in the keel for “safekeeping.” It’s possible. Maybe you’ll be lucky.
* Good thought. Even though I am sure the keel has never been installed, the pin could be there.
As for spacers, I don’t know if Dick (the fellow who wrote the article) ever got around to adding them. I don’t have any on my boat and the centerboard slapping can be annoying at times. Yet, I share the concern about the board getting stuck up or down. We fight Zebra mussels and they can get in everywhere. For the time being, I’m leaving things as they are. I had the boat hoisted for a keel and board inspection a year ago and all was fine.
* I will go with your advice about this.
The centerboard pendant does run through the tube out into the cockpit. On our boat there is a simple cleat right above the point where the tube exits the cockpit sole. It’s on the after edge of what passes as a bridge deck or step. It’s not in the way there and works fine.
* Thank you, pretty much what I thought.
Sounds like you found the boat’s real weather boards. That’s lucky. We use ours all the time. I do have a plywood panel that I made to use when I’m refinishing the teak boards. Otherwise, I like the three piece units.
* Yes, that was a real suprise.
We bought our boat new, and there was no owners’ manual. You’ll just have to keep a notebook of material that you discover. One of the joys of good old boat ownership!
* I guess that is why there is no owners’ manual in the shed with the keel or wrapped in rugs on the boat.
There never was one.
Cheers,
Bill
* Thanks again,
Tom