The Q24 Fleet

Q24 Page 4 

There are many beautiful Q24s sailing about, so it’s only right and proper that we have a page devoted to them.  So here we are!   If you own a 24, you’re welcome to post.  I’m happy to add pictures, too.  To post a new comment, you’ll have to scroll to the very bottom of this page- all the way down.  I’ve tried to change the formatting to bring that to the top, but can’t seem to accomplish that.

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349 comments

  1. I am the latest newbie to this board.
    I am in the process of searching for my first sailboat. I have been a motor boater for the last 30+ years primarily fishing and coastal cruising. The QS24 checks all of my must haves. Cockpit for 4. Overnighting for 2. Very simple/ limited systems. Real keel versus fin or centerboard. Outboard engine. I am willing to pay extra money for a boat that doesn’t look and smell like it was just dragged off the Jersey shore after Hurricane Sandy!

    Being a newbie to sailing I am willing to sacrifice stability for speed. The question for this board is “What are the best and worst sailing characteristics of a QS24?”

    In return for this knowledge I will offer you all some info………
    In my internet search of the QS24 I noticed that in many of the pictures I viewed, the lower units on the outboards are all heavily corroded. Obviously, the inability to raise your motor out of the water will contribute to this. But do yourself the favor of disconnecting your motor from your battery. You are actually accelerating the electrolysis by keeping it connected.

    1. Replacing zinc annually not a bad idea either and checking it mid season helps too.
      No problems for my engine yet. Poorly bonded, plugged in boats in close proximity at my marina are the main problem. You can hear them fizz at the docks.
      Sacrifice stability for speed? Quickstep not your boat.
      I’m gonna leave the N.J. slight alone being a resident.

  2. I just closed a deal to purchase a Quickstep 24. The boat will need to be trucked to its new home. Can anyone who has moved one confirm 1. the weight of the boat, 2. the length of the mast, 3. the height of the boat with the mast down?

  3. Hey guys- have a mid 80’s Q 24- does anyone know where to get the little plastic caps that go inside under the cabin top? The cover the handrail bolts- thanks

  4. Where would I locate my bilge pump on my quick step 21’?
    There’s no opening in the floor that I can see to access the lowest point.

    1. Jeremie, in my 24 the bilge pump is in the aft port seat locker.. From there it’s a hose to the bottom of the keel. It’s a Whale Guzzler pump and repair kits are available from various sources as well as new pumps. Defender.com for one. You posted in the Q24 section here, hopefully a Q21 owner will answer you. I’m sure one of them can assist if they read here. Otherwise try the ‘Scuttlebutt’ area by posting again.

    2. I have an opening behind the step into the cabin which opens and gives access to the lowest point in the bilge

  5. Victoria,

    I saw you are thinking about putting your Quickstep 24 on the market. I would appreciate discussing. We are actively in the market. 919 247 5099. Joe Hotard

  6. adequate power in a chop with high headwinds in rough weather to get into port?
    Yamaha 9.9 or any 2cyl motor 8hp and up to 9.9. Want to back up, stop quickly, re-accelerate as in docking? 9.9 again. The 6 is minimal under those circumstances but perhaps adequate too. Chesapeake gets honkin windy too. No substitute for power and wheel size under some circumstances. I’d lke to try the 6 on a 24 before I buy one solely to save weight.
    This is the undying question and the correct answer depends….

    1. I’m on the same page with you Chris for every point you make. My 9.9 came with the boat and < 50 hrs on it . It looks and runs like a new o/b. They are wonderful reliable units and I’ll be thankful crossing the Bay.

      If I only stayed in the Rappahannock R I’d try the 6HP 4-stroke Tohatsu first as I know the local dealer.

  7. Bill,
    Pls register 1980 Q24 Hull #14
    Builder: CE Ryder
    Name: “Viola“
    Homeport : Urbanna, VA
    Owner: Rob Waltenbaugh
    Richmond VA

    1. Bill,
      I’m right across the river from you in Irvington. My wife and I are interested in a Quickstep 24. We’ve got several question about the Q24’s and were wondering if you would be willing to spend a bit of time on the phone to discuss the boat? i can be reached at 919 247 5099. Thanks.

      1. Hi Joseph- I’ll be glad to discuss the Q24 with you. I just arrived in Lancaster today and will be in a rental on the Western Branch of the Corrotoman for the rest of July. I’ll call you.
        Rob Waltenbaugh

  8. I am looking at a 1987 Q24 today that is for sale by a private seller. Can anyone give me an idea of what late 80’s models have been selling for? Thanks

    1. Several on the market in currently in Southern New England including mine in RI. All range between 8-13k.

      1. Where are these boats listed? They are not coming up on yachtworld or sailboatlistings or in a google search? Which one is yours?

          1. It is. I replied once already but I can’t tell if it went through so replying again. Happy to talk live anytime. My cell is 401.744.6748 – Chris

          1. We are getting ready to put our QuickStep on the market. We had some medical issues in the family and need to let go of the boat. It is currently located on the eastern shore of Maryland. Let me know if you are interested in discussing.

    2. https://providence.craigslist.org/boa/d/groton-quickstep-24/7147251812.html

      Should have added this particular boat appears to need some attention. Basic boat, New motor. Colored sails…love em or hate em.
      Where are you located? If NJ area I can look at a boat with you if nearby.
      Now under these economic conditions the buyer has advantage.
      However there are few really good boats of any make / model/ year so when you find one it’s probably worth the extra money depending on your talents to recover a cheap but neglected boat or hack job by previous proud owner.

  9. My Q24 came with a almost new Yamaha 9.9 o/b. Great motors but heavy as #€¥! at 95#.
    Great for long cruising if needed on the Chesapeake Bay but usually sail in a great river up stream of Bay.

    What smaller HP o/b are others using that provide adequate power in a chop with high headwinds in rough weather to get into port?

      1. Thanks Mark – that’s the motor I’ve been considering. Glad to hear it works/worked for you.
        Cheers,
        Rob

  10. Looking for an elusive trailer for a 24 pretty much anywhere in the Northeast. Capable of modifying an existing sailboat trailer if its approx the right size. Let me know!

    1. Reuben,
      Call Robert (540) 591-9908
      Daleville VA

      He is selling a 2-axle trailer that he used for a O’Day 272. $2500 asking. He might deliver or meet you. I was considering for my Q24 but had to back out for a personal issue that drained my boat $ pool🤨.

      Great trailer for that price.
      Rob W
      Richmond Va
      ‘78 Q24 ‘Viola‘

  11. Trying to find replacement windows and inside frame covers for the ports on mu 1988 Q24. Having a hard time identifying manufacturer and model. Any ideas?

    I have pictures if there is a way to
    post them?

        1. Mine say ‘Lewmar’ on latch handle. No label. I think they are ‘old size 0’ Same cutout as new size 0. Only a Lewmar dealer can confirm. Or email Lewmar support. Screens are not useful in my opinion, the mesh is too fine and the size of port too small to allow flow without a good breeze, and I noticed they’re 40$ each which is goofy. Make something with standard fibreglass screen if you don’t have a no see um problem.
          I made a drop board with a screen and a velcro attached screen for the deck hatch. in case that is an option you could use.

      1. Hi Patrick: I have a Q24 in RI that I plan to put on the market shortly if you’re in the market. -Chris

        1. Thanks for the quick reply Chris. Would be interested in getting price and details as soon as possible as I am considering another boat this weekend. When do you expect to post it?

    1. Replaced the hull liner with Sailrite ” Seabrook Sea White” foam backed headliner – no perforations. Color closely matches the Formica. Req. 8 yds 54″ wide at $30 /yard. Can be split down the middle for the 1/4 berths. and 3 cans of 3M General trim spray adhesive at $26 each !. Looks like a Million$ and brightens up the whole cabin. Some noticeable dampness noticed, though, especially in the 1/4 berths. Since the genoa track is suspect, and totally removable, I’ll probably remove it and re-bed in the Spring.

    2. Update on above hull liner. The Defender and Miamicorp products are identical. The sample cards are both Miamicorp logos. Defender sells Miamicorp product. I did my interior with yardage from Miamicorp $13 and change per yd. 72″ wide. Its great. High quality, dense, breathes, easy to work with, and bargain. Interior looks impressive. These Q24s are some sweet little boats!

  12. Here is a maybe helpful thing to consider. I had an area on the port side quarterberth hull lining that had been stained and felt moist lately after rain. Figured it was leaking in from either the winch island , the hull deck screws or the toe rail bolts. All the toe rail bolt bungs were in good shape but underneath where the bolt came through the hull there was some discoloration around a nut and washer. I decided to snug the toe rail nuts. I marked the thread with a sharpie pen and began snugging the nuts being careful not to move the bolt by watching the mark. Got about 3/4 turn on a few and a half on the others fore and aft of the stain. Did not make too tight, call it very snug. Then it rained around here for 2 more days and not a bit of moisture could be felt in the lining material. I’m hoping the moisture was entering the toe rail bolt hole under the toe rail and the caulking there was still serviceable enough to soldier on. By no means a certainty but it is better and may be a worthwhile thing to try before drilling bungs , pulling bolts and re-caulking the toe rail. Anyone with any experience in this area? Thanks

    1. Mine was badly stained in the same area when I purchased the boat a few years ago. I figured the winch pedestal. I tore that portion of the lining out and have never seen water since with all sorts rain conditions?? There are other parts of the lining that are mildewed. That brings me to my next question. Has anyone undertaken the task of replacing the lining.? I’m thinking of automobile headliner.

      1. Ripped the original liner out and replaced with Home Depot indoor/outdoor gray carpeting. Super low pile. Kept the original pieces as templates and chalked it out on the new, with an inch around to trim for error. Steel brushed, scraped and vacuumed as much of the old backing material as I could off the inner hull, but didn’t worry about it too much. Used 3M super adhesive backing. Sprayed and fitted along the top edge of the new liner first, adhered it to the top cabin edge, and let it hang like a curtain. Fitted, trimmed, then lifted from the bottom and sprayed both the new liner and the hull, but lightly. It doesn’t take a lot to keep it in place. The ‘curtain’ technique had the added benefit of containing the adhesive spray, keeping it from getting all over the cabin, woodwork, other surfaces. Best to line up the new liner weave carefully. I aimed for the weave to run horizontally. Looks good. Used a cheap plastic paint scraper to tuck new liner edges under the wood trim of counter/sink top/ bow anchor box, etc. Looks clean, neat, and a lot better than the original. Also, I won’t feel bad if I have to rip it out again someday. Hopefully not, but if so, it won’t be hard to remove, clean, and replace. I liked the idea of horizontal wood interior, but weight, time, maintenance, all that? I like what I have.

        1. The ‘curtain’ technique had the added benefit of containing the adhesive spray,

          I’m gonna remember that!

          Great post Eric lots of good stuff here.

        2. Eric. Took a closer look yesterday and the bottom of the original liner is tucked underneath the plywood covers over the lower compartments. Did you remove these? Its a big job .

          1. I don’t recall. But if it was, I did not remove the boards below the cushions. I’d use a box cutter and lightly score the liner as close as you can there and pull it away. For me, it didn’t matter that the new liner was an inch or two long on the vertical, because it could simply lay on those boards and the cushions go right over them. However, my old liner was not moldy or mildewed. It had just started to fall away after several years of abandonment on the hard. You might be able to just loosen the screws that hold those boards and pull the liner out.

    2. Sailrite sells “hull liner” material, specifically for this purpose. It is similar to the HD/LOWES carpet, but it do NOT have the backing, so it conforms & stretches to the curves. $22/yard, 72″ wide. Works great, have used on multiple boats, and use the same process as others above, i.e. Clean, cut to shape, spray adhesive, press in place, trim.

  13. Hi All
    I may be putting my 1989 Quickstep 24 up for sale.
    It is located in Winthrop Ma.
    The boat is in beautiful shape.
    Any recommendations on where to list it.
    Thanks
    Mark

    1. I guess the obvious choices — other than this site — are Yachtworld (if you want to involve a broker) and Craigs List. Please let me know when you do. I have a friend looking for either a 21 or 24. Thanks

      1. Hello All: I have a Q24 I’m interested in selling this summer. She is in Rhode Island. -Chris

      1. Broke up with my sailing partner, not easy to find capable sailors that don’t own a boat themselves.
        Thanks for the sites Chris.

  14. Has anyone ever put a bimini cover on their Quickstep 24? Not a lot of room, but shade would make a difference for how my boat is used. If yes, do you have a picture?

    1. Jeff. There’s not enough overhead clearance for a proper bimini with the Main at 100%. I have a fixed boom gooseneck and I’m thinking of replacing it with a sliding gooseneck in the sail track, so that I could employ a bimini with the main reefed. OR replace the main with a new loose footed main with cut down luff by about a foot. I figure the improved sail shape at the foot will compensate for the loss of sail area.

      1. That is my impression as well. It would be a very tight fit, with too many compromises. Was thinking also about raising the boom 8-12″ to accommodate. The loss of sail area is regrettable, but a bimini during the hot summer months on the Chesapeake may make the boat much more pleasant.

      1. 1/4″ welded flat stock is pretty durable unless you really abused it or somehow corroded it . Stainless needs to breathe. Unscrew your 6 deck caps and dig out the sealant and look for pitting / corosion. You can see everything else from above or below.. If yours are ruined, remove them, they bolt through bulkhead under plywood trim and take to a welder for repair or reproduction. I’d bet you are in good shape.

        1. Thanks Chris, this is very helpful. I will remove the caps and check them out as you suggest. Any suggestions for a good sealant?

          1. Thats a good one. 3M 4200 is probably the go to goo here. I tried everything in that area, all the fancy marine products including butyl tape. Currently I use 5$ GE silicone to seal the chainstay caps. The stays are always working as you sail and are prone to leaks. Silicone has proven to move with the boat and remain waterproof. I re-do annually. Totally dry. Some will say silicone has no place on a boat. I agree except for this use. When you remove the caps be aware that some screws may go all the way through the chainstay while others only go into the deck and will probably need to be improved by drilling, removing some balsa under the deck skin then filling w/epoxy mix of your choice. Properly drill tap holes for your screws. Tighten only enough to seat the caps on your sealant of choice. These are not structural. BEWARE, silicone is a problem if you intend to paint. Paint problems WILL occur if you don’t prep meticulously.
            You can bend 3/16″ of a finish nail at the tip to a 90deg angle put the nail in a drill and fish it into the screw hole to remove a bit if balsa. Tape your screw holes to keep epoxy off the deck. A trimmed small allen key works as well.

  15. Anybody have the occasion to remove the vee bow water tank? If so , if I cut the aft cross piece out, will it then slide out of the larger aperture behind it? Has anyone found a suitable replace tank?

    1. Morning
      Yes I have and yes you can…..
      You can have them cleaned,sanitized, or you can do it yourself.
      I made the mistake of tossing mine.
      I just added a small 9 gallon tank,I still don’t even use that much.
      I always have fresh water on board for drinking.
      Enjoy

      1. Thanks Larry. I’m going to remove it and try to clean it up myself. Its nasty, slimy and stinks. I think ill have better success cleaning it up if it’s out of the boat. .. Yes, I always carry a gallon or two of bottled water but I’m going on an extended cruise this summer and could use the extra 9 or10 gal. with the weight positioned where it should be.

        1. You could fill with strong bleach solution, shake and use the sink pump to fill hoses. Let sit , pump and flush as needed. If ur boat is on trailer or stands, put a primed hose in tank, out the hatch and down to ground , mine has an access plate of hand hole size for pressure hosing and scrubbing, and use siphon effect to drain fast. I have a hard poly V tank under berths with about 15g cap. Instructions on bleach bottle for water purification too. I don’t trust dock water.

          1. It wasn’t too hard to remove the tank after cutting the cross-bar out. Then power washed , turned upside down, etc.getting all surfaces, then sanitized. By the way, how do you fill the tank? The 1/2 in hose fitting in the front top of the tank appears to go nowhere. Through the access plate?

  16. Here’s something for all us slaves to varnish. I just stripped my entire tor rail, motor board and gas locket slats in 6 hours. Clean and ready for first coat of varnish. Motor board didn’t even take 10 mins.

    Used this scraper with the corners knocked off.

    https://www.amazon.com/MANUFORE-Ergonomic-Carbide-Scraper-1-5-Inch/dp/B06XW7H53S/ref=sr_1_14?crid=35ZJVN4VE4R71&keywords=manufore&qid=1554929141&s=gateway&sprefix=Manufore%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-14

    Super sharp and not dull yet.

    Made some heat shields from aluminum flashing of different radii to protect Awlgrip in my case maybe gel or paint in others. Shields Up!

    Virtually no sanding needed and no chemicals either. Am I the last to learn?

    1. Might try the heat gun on the toe rails this year. Problem is you need 3 hands don’t you? One for the heat gun,one for the scraper and one for the heat shield. I swear by my Sandvik scrapers. Thanks for the tip.

      1. Two will do. I shielded my deck a foot at a time with a handheld piece of flashing held in the wood/deck joint. Only have to heat that section for a minute or less until your fingers burn, put the flashing down and scrape with the carbide scraper. My varnish never blistered but got soft and came right off. Works much cleaner than the youtube guy shows with the old fashioned scraper. These carbide scrapers are the best.

    2. Hi Chris
      Definitely the way to go. I use the heat gun and scraper method as well. My finish is still gel coat, so I am not as fussy with heat shielding.
      Mark

  17. Msg to John D…followup from boatyard question. I’d remove and caulk everything from under the stainless plate on up. Inspect the mast for entry holes and seal them too. Sounds like you may have compression in the cabin top necessitating the stainless plate? Not sure though of course. Consider, if your cabin has no crown but a compression under the mast that water could be entering elsewhere (screw holes, poorly bedded hardware etc) and flowing down into the compressed area resulting in leaks that appear to be mast related but may no be. May have a flooded core again with a river flowing through it. Over tensioning your stays will drive the mast straight down resulting in certain boat death. Boats on moorings rolling in waves need to pay particular attention here. Its a deck stepped thing not a Quickstep specific issue. And now its freezing too.

  18. Just contemplating things now that the boat’s out of the water – my question is – can a QS24 heave to? I’ve been unsuccessful in several attempts. The bow would just blow off the wind each time I back-winded the jib ( furled to about 110%) Is there just too much cutaway in the forefoot?

    1. It works fine Dave. Have appropriate sail up. Tack across the wind but leave jib sheet alone. Jib is on the wrong ( back winded ) side now. Sheet the main till just the leech is filling and push the tiller to lee and lash it. From there its minor tweak’n. Boat will more or less pinch up to the wind but fail to tack…repeatedly and you will be sliding downwind slowly.

  19. Dave P..back in Feb you were talking about boarding ladders. I have come round to thinking of adding one. In one of the seller appeals below is one I was interested in. I’d make the struts foldable but otherwise the design looks simple and clean. I’m wondering what you and others with ladders thought of it. Link below, middle picture of the three is best. Thanks.
    http://brooklinboatyard.com/ruby/

    1. Chris, I have been looking for a ladder and agree the one pictured on the Q24 at Brooklin Boat Yard looks ideal. I have been searching the web to identify a similar one online. However, I assume it was custom built. I would be glad to know if anyone has information about the ladder or where one could be custom made.

      1. Thanks Don, Looks good but for the non-hinged standoff legs. Welded standoffs keep ladder from crashing into topsides but look awful. @$100 in tubing and hardware plus bending and welding @10hrs time. Just don’t want to go through the trouble for a bad design. More thought is still needed. Good winter project maybe.

    2. Chris,Don;

      Looks like the discontinued Garelick 12048 turned upside down, or the current Garelick with 180deg U bend cut down to 90deg. Then possibly fitted with a swivel pad, such as used for Bimini tubing. A good idea. The problem with the pictured arrangement is that the topsides are high in that position and curvy and probably wont sit squarely against the hull. My setup uses the 12048 with pins mated to receiver plates just forward of the winch pedestals at the lowest point of the sheer. The ladder is easily stowed in the port locker. I customized the standoff legs using PVC pipe to fit the curvature of the hull. There is no problem with the standoff legs collapsing.

      Dave

      1. Thanks Dave, sadly the operative word is ‘discontinued’. I would think the curve of the toe rail fairly closely matches the hulls curve and plan to mount mine somewhat forward as yours is. My Q has no stern pulpit. Maybe one standoff would need to be a bit longer than the other. I’m starting to collect parts for my ladder, Ebay, direct from China. MAGA. I will keep you posted. Thanks
        BTW…What is the model of the ladder you refer to as current the 06131 or original 05041? I’m not against adapting but these are aluminum I think.

        1. Neither. The one I thought I was referring to seems to have disappeared from the Garelick site. Garelick had sent me the production drawing and parts list, of the 12048 – I can e-mail it to you.

        2. Chris. Moved permanent SS boarding ladder, deployable from the water, back to the top of the list for Spring project. Friend of mine (here in Florida) fell off his catboat couldn’t get back in for an hour and suffered severe hypothermia (at 67DegF water temp!). Probably will be a custom design using an existing product as a starting point. Let me know how your design is developing.

        3. Chris. You did some nice research with a few more possibilities. Probably the Pactrade Marine. It appears fairly long. To get the ladder to pivot vertically 180deg you’d pribably have to add a 2” block of plastic to raise the base fitting allowing the bend to clear the deck. Also the standoff struts seem a little low. These could be placed higher and set up to “fold” as they would be fairly lengthy. But would need to get actual dimensions and lay it out before making final decision on any of them.

  20. Hi,

    I’m looking to purchase a Q24 and wondered if anyone here knew of one for sale. Located near Annapolis, but willing to travel along the east coast.

    Thanks,
    Brandon

    1. Hi Brandon,
      I am seriously thinking about selling my Qstep24
      Professionally repainted 2 yrs ago.Dark blue…..wow
      I’m also in Mystic Ct.
      Larry 4135376613
      Thanks good luck on your search

  21. I’m a new Q24 owner up in Deer Isle Maine. Other than sailing a dinghy as a kid, it’s all new to me. Anyone else Downeast?

    1. My vote…27-48″ model though the shorter one night do.

      https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2331321|2331343|2331346&id=103275

      Removable with one press of a button. Beautifully made, Rock solid mech, Adjustable. Requires one hole to be drilled in tiller for SS locking base.
      Works as well as a tiller tamer too when adjusted and wedged against seat back.
      Decent price today too.

      Is the Harken removable or does it always flop around?

  22. We have a 1978 quickstep 14 foot sailboat. We want to sell but cannot figure out a value as we cannot find a single one for sale or any info. Know this site is for larger QS, but any help would be appreciated.

    1. New to the group.

      Purchased Sea Finn from John in Oyster Bay last fall.

      I see how you can comment by clicking on the Reply key but how does one submit a new question to the group?

      Dave

        1. I guess I’m missing something here.
          When I scroll all the way to the bottom, here’s all I see:

          Reply Comments

          Want less email? Unsubscribe from all follow-up comments or modify your Subscription Options.

          None of these seem to be where I can ask a new question?
          Must be missing something here?

    2. Cathie, around me in NJ in reasonable shape with legal documentation I would guess 800. More with a trailer…again a legal one.

  23. Greetings, ‘Sprig’ (#197) is going in the water soon. My first season with her, and she’s been on the hard for several years. Everything is checked out. I’m looking for recommendations on standing rig adjustments. The boatyard will raise and secure stays/shrouds but in terms of tuning I’m on my own. Any recommendations?

    1. Based on when I bought my boat a few years ago and had it setup by an experienced rigger I have the backstay at 15% and the shrouds at around 8%.

      1. Sorry Mark, right you are!..I never read my tension gauge carefully it seems. It is a percent% of cable breaking strength not pounds of tension. ‘A’ string tuned.

    2. https://loosnaples.com/how-tos/tension-gauges

      This link is a good start. Read and watch. Properly tensioned means the lee stays are not slack (just still slightly taut) when heeled hard. I think Marks figures are #pounds not %percent. Takes time and practice. Make sure when you think you are done the mast is not tilted to one side or another when eye balled with your head against the luff track boom off. Enjoy.

  24. Inboard owners. I guess you have to remove the rudder to get the prop off. Or am I missing something.

    1. Not an inboard owner but will hazard a guess. Did you try to remove and find there is insufficient clearance to remove the freed propeller because it is captivated in the aperture hanging on the shaft? If so you will need to either slide the shaft forward after discovering how it connects to the gearbox. Finding that a dead end the motor may need to be pulled on it’s logs so more clearance is obtained in the aperture.
      If you have room to remove the prop from the aperture which would make sense then you need to loosen the prop nut but for a turn, soak the prop and shaft with WD40 and call it a day.
      Most sailboat props are on taper shafts with keyways and after a good soak a few sharp , not necessarily heavy shots with a copper hammer will free them fairly easily.
      The removal of the rudder is not on the list of things to do.

      1. Chris. There’s barely 3/4″ between the end of the shaft and the rudder and the prop hub is a good 2 1/2″. The other IBs around he yard seem to have ample room to remove the props within the apertures. As you say next step is to see if the shaft can slide forward. Not easy to inspect the shaft as the cockpit floor needs to be removed. Its caulked in place. I remove it just before launching and re-caulk it once I get the engine started , inspect the fuel tank and confirm there are no seal leaks once launched. The reason for removing the prop was to inspect the keyway – as I remember in these posts somewhere that one IB owner had a problem with the prop hopping over the key under full throttle. I get the sensation that I not getting any bite under full throttle – and there is some additional vibration. As my launch date is way behind schedule I think I’ll scrap this from the “TO DO” list this season.

      2. Sorry Dave, I don’t know the config of the QS inboard. Is it a straight shaft or V drive of some type? In either type there should be a coupler that may allow the free play you need to slide shaft to remove if sufficient access is provided.
        Keyways are usually fairly substantial brass square stock. If yours is sheared I would expect the prop was not tightened properly ( no pun int) allowing slap, resulting in damage or shear. Is there visible injury to your prop from an impact that caused problem?
        If you feel somewhat curious, WD40 and loosen the prop nut, you may need to block the prop against the aperture somehow to loosen the nut. Then hit the prop back (against the hub) with a soft hammer or a hard one with a block of wood and check for more than a few degrees of rotation of the prop before it hits the key. Anymore than a bit suggests a key problem, if the prop spins free maybe it is sheared or omitted completely during assembly.
        If you can really honk on the prop and not rotate it keyway may be fine.
        Don’t smack the hub heavily as until it releases it will be affecting the shafts, cutlass bearing and vdrive or trans output, depending on config. Has to be done but not overdone.
        Probably not a big deal to fix but if you don’t fold up like origami anymore due to time adding up this may be a pay for job. You have her in a good yard?

    2. Was thinking, if your prop is slipping on the shaft it would do so under hard acceleration. If you have issues at full throttle you may just have the wrong wheel on there. Could be cavitating. Prop can’t hop over the key, its either sheared or not. Anyway, let us know what it turns out to be.

      1. Its straight shaft with a dripless bearing. I was able to really honk on the prop by using a 2 x 4 lever and putting it in gear, and it turns the engine over before slipping. There doesn’t appear to be any play whatsoever. Ill chalk it up to cavitation for now. Thanks !

  25. Hello All: I’m looking for a used trailer for a Q24. If you know of one, please let me know. Thx, Chris

  26. Hi Everyone – I am in RI and looking to purchase a Quickstep 24 this Spring. If you have one or no of someone who is interested in selling please let me know and thanks! -Chris

    1. Hi Chris in Rhode Island.
      I’m just started thinking about selling my Q 24….no crew
      I’m located near Mystic Ct.
      She is a beauty
      Thanks,
      Larry

        1. I have a Q24 in clinton ct and dont use it much- would love to share her with someone-(and some of the expenses) my cell is 860.478.4068 james v

          Sent from my iPad

          James Varano

          >

    2. Here chris- did u buy one yet? Where would you keep her in RI? I have a nice Q 24 and was considering sharing for the season- no time! If your are interested call me- james v BTW my boat is in westbrook ct 8604784068

    1. Unfortunately the beautiful canoe stern makes the boarding ladder situation difficult. I did a pretty comprehensive search and didn’t come up with anything satisfactory as a permanent fixture. I opted for a side mount folding removable ladder , Garelick 12048 which unfortunately isn’t in production anymore, but I had one from my previous boat. It has pins which fit into permanent receiving plates mounted just below the toe rail at lowest freeboard height just aft of mid-ships. It stows easily under the seats. If you provide me with your e-mail address I can send you a drawing. Maybe you can find some old stock on the internet (Dpurnhag@Optonline.net). In the long term I may have a custom folding ladder built for permanent mid-ships mounting. If I fall off the boat someday I want to be able to get back in.

      1. Thanks for the helpful information. Midships or just aft seems to be the most practical placement for a ladder. I recall seeing a transom ladder in a photo of a Q24 for sale one time, but cannot find the picture. In any case, it does not seem like a good idea! I was a least able to see a photo of the Garelick 12048, which appears to be a decent design. I like the idea of a removable ladder that also mounts solidly and stores well. A permanent custom folding ladder would be even better. I will keep looking and share anything that looks good.

      2. The problem with the new Garelick ladders is that the top piece forms a complete “U” and takes up space on deck walkway which ,as you know, is limited on a QS24. By the way, I modified the 12048 by extending the side struts to fit the curvature of the QS24 topsides. Used PVC, either 3/4″ or 1″, I forget which.

    1. Setting it up is easy…its walking around with your Sperry Topsiders on your knees that’s hard. Seriously though, you could get your main shortened so your boom sits higher. Some Q,s have booms that slide. On most though you will need to relocate the gooseneck and perhaps cut a new entry in the mast for your mainsail slides. You could probably pick up a foot or more without seriously compromising boat balance/performance. And you won’t have to reef quite so soon in a stink. I vote for a good hat though I do appreciate what the Chesapeake is like on a 95 degree day with 90pct. humidity. Uffda!

  27. New Q24 gallery has been added. Pictures of Bruce’s motor mount modifications as well. Access from welcome page. Thank you again Bill!

  28. A few people have asked me for photos of my stern modification that allows me to raise my motor out of the water so here are a couple of links that you can cut and paste to see these and some other things. The first link is the renovation project that was done up in Rockland ME in 2013 after I bought her for a whopping $2,000… $20K later she looks pretty sweet 🙂
    Here is a nice new awl grip paint, woodwork sanded, hull had all old toilet through hulls sealed and plumbing removed, barrier coat, fresh bottom paint and a new name, new battery and just a little engine work. The boat had the original cover to seal the engine hole and they build me a second one to seal up the new extended hole. I never use either of them. Anyways, here is the link (2103)

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/vgypPMxUHGj7w00t2

    and here is one more showing both my new loose footed main (2017) and my very old 150 genoa as I got a few questions how far back does it go and some nice sailing in Nantucket Sound. I’m the guy in the green hat and the other guy is my brother, Richard

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/D7Ok6bhqulUV6pYo1

    she got shrink wrapped last week. My marina is more motor boat savvy. I got delayed and hadn’t got my roller furling jib off and they ended up shrink wrapping it in. yikes!!! We did a little cutting and I did my best yoga impressions to get under the shrink wrap and get the jib down 🙂

    Time to break out the skis.

    Happy Thanksgiving to all,

    Justin

    1. Regarding the 150 trim. I have seen 24’s with very short almost useless jib tracks. Worst case scenario longer tracks can be installed enabling proper sheeting of a 150. Your tracks (Justin) appear a bit longer than mine. I think a track extending a foot aft of the winch island would be nice. One more for the wish list.

  29. Just purchased 1986 Quickstep 24, Aurelia. At some point she was in Hingham MA. She will now be on the upper Chesapeake on Middle River. She had a diesel that was taken out 2 owners ago. I have it in pieces.Hoping to fix it up. Looking for an oil pan and con rod for the 1gm10. Previous owner put in a clever outboard well that should allow for tilting the motor. I am looking for an outboard to use while I fix up the boat and work on the diesel. 2 options are a NOS couple of year old 5 hp Mercury 4 stroke 20″ shaft Sail Mate (60lbs) or a 30 years old new old stock Yamaha 9.9 hp 4 stroke FT 9.9 EXH electric start with a 25″ shaft (100 lbs). The Yamaha looks nice, but I am concerned about the weight. I am also concerned that the 5 hp willl not be quite enough. I am interested in any suggestions?

    1. do you have any pics of the stern modification that allows for outboard tilt? I hate dragging mine all the time? I have a new 8 hp merc 4 stroke and it really moves the boat along nicely (it is heavy though) previously i had anold 2 strocke yamaha 6 that did the job fine and was lighter. It depends where you sail and if there a places w/ strong current. If its just getting in and out of slip the 5 would be fine. When I cross Plum Gut or the Race (L.I Sound) I am happy to have the xtra HP

        1. James, Check the site’s “Welcome” page for picture information and site administrator email.. Perhaps a Q24 Gallery page or Workshop page could be added for for curated technical or seaside pictures of yachts..

          1. Hi Everybody. I’m going to work on updating the site over the next few days and will be happy to add a gallery specifically for the 24. I’m using a free WordPress account for this site, so I think the best way to get pictures aboard is to send them to the Quickstep21@gmail.com email address. I’ll explore a bit to see if direct posting of photos is possible, but I think I tried that before without much luck. I have a small backlog of pictures in the email account now to get on line and they will all be part of the update. I’m glad you are finding the connection with other Quickstep owners useful. Bill

          2. Bill..Mark is right. Thanks for creating and maintaining this site and allowing us Q24 owners to have a place. It is very much appreciated.
            ChrisD

    2. Bruce. Welcome to the fleet: I have a 1GM10 diesel and there are conditions where I use every bit of its 9hp – motoring into a 15-20kt wind plus waves for several hours with the dodger up for instance. But if its just temporary, I’d go with the low HP , and just get a manual start. The 9.9 HP Yamaha is a great motor but you want to go light on a QS so the boat doesn’t squat under power and take in water through the scuppers. I think you want a 25″ shaft though. It will make a great backup motor in case of a problem with the diesel. Rented a QS in the Chesapeake before going ahead to purchase my boat. It was equipped with a Tohatsu 6hp manual start and it was fine, even making decent headway into a light squall. I think Tohatsu and Mercury are the same motor. Search this forum on the subject – there is a lot of information on motor selection. Dave

    3. I’d like to see some pics too and know how it works in the real world. It might be nice to be able to leave the boat with the lower end out of the water. I have always used Pettit Alumacoat paint on my motor’s wet parts. So much better than that spray junk at 20 bucks a can. A quart lasts 10 years or longer and if you use a small brush to get into the water intake and exhaust ports you will have only negligible fouling on the motors bottom end. Never any barnacles.
      I worry about cutting, filling and fairing a giant keyhole in my canoe stern, which is easy enough but may not not be such a good idea for those who sail in larger waters. . Aside from the loss of aesthetics I wonder if there is a great increase of following seas sloshing into the motor well and over the motor mount boards. I would think if you sail in more than occasional chop or any following sea of consequence the mod may have draw backs at least equal to it’s advantages. Brewer may have had a reason for the current design.
      Lastly, keep a zinc on hand and check yours regularly. My neighbors at the marina have poorly designed electrical systems and they have it out for my aluminum motor. Few people understand proper grounding and could care less. They just keep replacing parts above and below the waterline. I just reach down and feel for the skeg on my Tohatsu/Merc/Nissan type engine zinc. If there is any remainder of the skeg the zinc is good enough and have never had any problem with the motor dissolving , clogging or a shortened lifespan. Lastly I don’t think I want to sail with my well hatch strung open, my motor intruding in the cockpit and most importantly getting in the way of my tiller. That is spelled safety hazard where I sail, but hey, I have an open mind…

      1. And 25 feet of mainsheet tangled in everything just when you need to let it run fast could present a problem too come to think of it. Happens occasionally as it is if I dont mind my sheet in the cockpit.

          1. Hey Mark tat figures…like I said it lasts ten yrs at least and thats a quart. Interlux still makes Trilux 33. Same idea. Jamestown Distributors. Ill probably go with that when I run out. Lots more copper free biocide paints available these days…maybe thats why they dropped it. So sad.

    4. Bruce. Your engine mounting position is a foot back and a bit higher than the standard position. Looking at your photos, the top right one shows the upright molded in supports for the outboard just aft of the rudder post left and right. I don’t know but it looks like an OB will be cramped in there possibly limiting your ability to steer by turning the engine which may be too cramped to rotate. You may have to steer by the boats tiller only which greatly limits you in close quarters particularly when backing. That’s one of the biggest drawbacks of an IB engine in a small boat pushed by a breeze in close quarters. Since your OB will be a foot back, so too will its weight adding to the effect on boat balance leading to more hobby horsing perhaps. Do you know why it was done that way? Diesel boats have additional storage in that position which is always a bonus in addition to the diesels added stiffening ballast. I see the configuration of the cockpit sole is different too in that it extends further aft. I’d fix the IB this winter like you planned, parts are available, then repair the stern so it looks sweet again. If you want to really go full flight, put a nice little bow thruster up front.

  30. I’m wondering if anyone (New England) has a Q24 trailer that they’re interested in selling, or even renting. I’m trying to find a way to get mine from Providence, RI area to Upstate (Finger Lakes) NY. Probably a little late to be asking for this fall. Could be after you have yours back in the water next spring. Or any other thoughts on this. Still 50/50 on sailing it back via LI Sound, Hudson River and Erie Canal in late June. But if I could get it back here for less than the outrageous quotes for regional transport services, I’d be happy to pay one of you a more than reasonable rate for one-time use. Thanks.

    1. Second attempt at answering First got lost, misplaced or nixed. Boat hauling is a very seasonal business and this is the high season. Rates should fall come Nov. Maybe retry your quotes then. Place your own ad for a hauler on CL too at both ends…..NYS…Conn..RI..whoever does it will probably make a round trip. State boat weight, keel depth, beam etc. and have insurance.
      I made my trailer from a homemade car trailer I bought cheap on CL and adapted. You can find car trailers fairly cheap on CL now and then. I got mine for 275. Had to put some work in it but still the finished product came in around 1000. I can send you pictures of it for design ideas if you would like.
      Finally, consider calling UHAUL and renting an open car trailer, maybe 50 bucks a day. Next call some marinas and see if you can get a JOWI cradle…I think you need a .5 model or the next size up will work too but it is heavy. http://www.angelfire.com/nc/pamlico/jowiinterim.html They are at every marina and frequently available cheap or at times free because they are out of favor. Using some Ubolts made up by a truck suspension shop (less than 75) remove 2 boards temporarily from the UHAUL and ubolt the JOWI .5 on. Or simply drill through the boards and attach around cross members. UHaul expects wear and tear and will never notice or care. Screw down some boards along the keel each side and front and rear to prevent shifting
      Use several tie down straps and some caution. Then go get your boat and bring it home. Sounds easy to me. Cheap too and a nice fall leaf drive through New England.

      1. You’re hired! Thank you much for the info and the encouragement. Looking at those JOWl cradles, what about a bow support? Any concern about not having that? If nothing else, to discourage any totter/creep over repeated braking action. The Trion trailers I’ve seen with the model all have that. Also, trailer brakes. Thoughts? Thanks again.

        1. Don’t over think it, you’ll get bogged down. Many rental trailer have inertia brakes. Otherwise you will need a truck with an electric brake controller. Not gonna pull this behind some FWD or mini motor thing. Full size pickup or van. 8 cylinders are always beneficial when pulling boats uphill all day. Front support can be fabricated easily of wood for one trip. Block the keel, sides and front and avoid potholes. I did weld a front V support and 2 additional flat top side supports to my trailer after a couple of years of running without. I can pretty much forget the boat is back there now.
          Talking to a friend today, he said Uhaul has become something of a PITA with regard to what they rent to who. Dunno, maybe Penske or some other outfit.
          Try calling trailer dealers/builders in your area or Mass, Conn, RI and see if they rent sailboat trailers and if not do they know who might. Lot of sailboats up there. Think you mean Triad? Custom trailers and prices too. Of course renting out east will make for 2 round trips. Anyway, good luck. over/out

  31. Newby, here. The Quickstep 24 I recently purchased had an old salt motor was is beyond repair. Wondering what HP folks find works best. She’s moving to a freshwater home in the Finger Lakes (NY). She may see some Great Lakes travels. Also, thoughts on a foldable prop? No experience.

    1. You will get a lot of different responses. I have a Tohatsu 6hp extra long shaft. We sail in the Boston area and it has been more than enough power. It also charges the house battery.
      It is however a manual start. Usually starts on 1 to 2 pulls.

      1. +1 on the Toe 6. I have an 8 electric start. I need the power at times in high current waters but the engine is heavier than I like and unnecessary extra weight at the end of a boat is not desirable, I never use the electric start as it starts in 2 pulls without fail (more extra weight there) 90lbs vs 60lbs for 8 vs 6. If you won’t need the extra hp for tides or currents then that 6 is a sweet motor. Light and strong enough for the finger lakes for sure. I wish I could get away with one. I’d sell you my nice 8 electric start…cheap.
        Do they make folding props for outboards? Don’t think there would be sufficient sailing performance increase to get me to fork over the money anyway.
        Ted Brewer …the boats designer suggested an 8hp for the boat. That was at the time of design when all outboards were 2 stroke and weighed half what these 4 strokers do now. So a 4 stroke 6 is about the weight of an old school 2 stroke 8. Still 2 horses less though.
        BTW…buy your engine from onlineoutboards.com or similar. Sent to your home, no tax. Check to see where you can get service for a given brand in your area too before entering your card number.
        Nissan and Mercury engines are all made by Tohatsu and with minor exceptions are the same.
        Around me, Craigslist frequently has nearly new Tohatsu engines for sale at around 1000 in the off season. There was recently a 6 for 700 which I was jonesing for. Might want to look there.

        1. Hi Chris
          You are a wealth of information. It is much appreciated how you take the time to provide valuable insights.
          Thanks
          Mark

          1. Thanks Mark…I dig these little boats and hope others will too. Though I’d take a Bridges Point 24 if the right gal sailed up beckoning me aboard. Highly unlikely. BTW a boat equivalent to a Q24 at today’s prices would run you about 75K Imagine that? Bridges Point costs that and more…Alerion 28 way more and Rustler 24’s 75K too all plus tax..nothing to sneeze at here in NJ.
            I mean what would you rather have this or a perfect Q24 and 60K in the bank?
            http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2017/Rustler-24-2802449/Newport/RI/United-States
            or a Bridges Point..so sweet
            http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1991/Bridges-Point-24-%26quot%3BLong-Cabin%26quot%3B-Cruiser-Sloop-2981745/Kennebunkport/ME/United-States
            All 3 currently in production.

          2. I agree. I love my boat and the 60k in the bank. We get so many positive comments on how pretty she is.

    2. RE: QS24 “Sprig” – Thanks for your responses. My wife has declared that she’s happy about the boat, but ‘It better have a good motor.’ I’m good with the 6hp for local waters. No tide or currents. Also, considering other posts re water in the cockpit while motoring, it sounds like stern weight is an issue.

    3. Mine came with a Yamaha 8 that is more than enough. If I needed to re-power, I think I’d save the extra weight and get a 6. I do like having the electric start. Since I am a bit overpowered, I rarely run at more than half throttle so it is a very quiet under motor. I also customized my stern as part of a paint job and hull project so that I can tilt the engine so that it just gets out of the water on the mooring which is really nice and hopefully extends its life a bit. In addition, I probably pick up a half a knot in lighter winds sailing with it tilted up. Thus I don’t need a foldable prop.

  32. Another question for the Q 24 fleet. I was crawling around the boat the other day getting to know her when I noticed the most aft portion of the keel is empty and flat on the bottom. I am wondering if it is practical to mount a shoot through transducer for my depth sounder. Is the underlying keel too thick? Is there lead there?
    Thanks again.
    Lee

    1. Lee: That flat area you describe is your bilge sump. It is where water collects, ideally not much, to be pumped out. There is no lead and it is about 3/8″ thick. Should be a hose down there from your bilge pump. If your transducer is waterproof I guess its fine though water on your newly installed transducer wiring may be a bad thing if it is not made to be wet.
      Mine is mounted by the water tank along the center line.

      1. Thanks Chris
        Do most Q 24’s have an automatic electric bilge pump? Mine seems to have a manual bilge pump only.
        Lee

        1. Lee, that manual pump is the standard as far as I know. It is a ‘Whale Gusher’ pump. Still made and a good one. Moves a lot of water fairly quickly. Also rebuild kits available. Defender sells both. I only used mine once when I intentionally flooded the bilge to scrub it with bleach and then pump it out. Also rebuild kits available. Defender sells both. I have no other pump. Actually my bilge is usually bone dry. I mean bone. The only way water can get there is if it comes through the companionway or with a wet anchor line if your boat is healthy. If you are getting water otherwise then there is leaky hardware soaking the hull liner which eventually reaches the bilge if it is bad enough, Hose water or sea getting into the anchor deck pipe (keep the chain out side facing aft), Leaky hatches or ports. Leaky toe rail screws or chainstays…each of these will have a mold streak under them if they are leaking. Even the little holes where the bow and stern light wires exit the pulpits take in quite a bit of water during a 3 day rain or lots of spray. Close those up with silicone. Check the 2 Marelon sea cocks behind the stair too. Those can leak, the lower hose connections at the top of the sea cocks are under water all the time. My least favorite part of a Q24 that is. Exercise the valve and know that the sea cocks are capable of being tightened if they are weeping water. Make sure your hoses are good. Leaving those sea cocks open all the time may not be the smartest thing to do. Like any bad sea cock it will sink a boat fast if there is a failure and bilge pump be damned, your going down. That said… I hate stained wet moldy stinking boats. Quickstep 24 were generally made with top of the line components so at least there is that!
          http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234261|2234264&id=101954

  33. I am thinking of replacing my 135 headsail this fall. Currently have a sail by Doyle. The material is Durasail. It is probably 15 years old. Has any one used anything more sophisticated, with good results

    1. Mark: I have Doyle sails. I like them. Tried and true dacron. Great shape and holding up well. I am calling Doyle first for a quote when if and when I need new sails. I’d be interested to hear other opinions on materials and makers too though.

    2. I bought a new Doyle loose footed main this year and am very pleased: Durasail Main, 1 Reef, 2 Full Battens, 2 Partial Battens, Luff Slides, Insignia, Sail Bag. $1236 including tax. This was 10% off the quote since it was bought during the slow season. They gave me a quote for a new roller furler 150% genoa 5.4 oz supercruise with suncover that was $1173 (excluding seasonal 10% discount and MA tax)

      On the topic of water in the cockpit, I don’t get any water in mine and I don’t carry any water in my fore tank nor worry much about crew placement. My engine mount/bulkhead is a composite material and is well sealed.

      1. Thanks Justin. I’ll check out their prices this fall. How far back does the 150 come. Does the jib track still work? I am guessing what I have is a 135 but now I am not sure.

        1. Yes, the jib tracks still work with the 150 and I think I am either at or a notch or 2 away from the stern end of the track. I am heading down to Cape Cod later in the week for a sail and I can take a picture and/or get a visual. I like having the 150 and Nantucket Sound is generally windy with the boat regularly sailing at hull speed while reaching but I have no point of comparison with how or whether the boat would sail better with a 135, but would welcome others thoughts. Maybe the 135 might be better upwind

  34. Hello All
    just purchased Q24 #169 in Marblehead and sailed her up to her new homeport in Newburyport. Noticed a lot of water in the cockpit when under power, quickly drained when under sail or on mooring. Is the bulkhead motor mount meant to be watertight?
    Thanks for your insight.
    Lee

    1. Hello Lee…The 24’s ‘transom’ is meant to be water tight. You can caulk around the edge of the wood from the aft side of the wood transom. Remove the old crap first. There are other things which will cause what you describe.
      Did you have 2 or more people or a lot of weight aft in the cockpit while motoring? Distribute the crew forward to keep the boats trim better. The boat is happiest with the crew closer to the cabin. Fill your water tank too…this helps level the boat.
      Is the motor adjusted correctly? Assuming that you have an outboard you may have the pin that positions the motors shaft in the wrong place causing the engine thrust to cause the boat to squat. Better to have the prop angled level or slightly down to help with boat trim.
      Lastly, was the water coming up through the upper rudder shaft tube? If so, pull your tiller forward and then push it aft and see how much play there is in the tube. If there is more than a little, then water will come up through the play. This can be stopped by inserting sacrificial strips of plastic into the tube, closing the gap and making water intrusion difficult.
      Under sail or motoring the outboard well should not be under water. Some water sloshing around under power is normal but not a constant number of inches in there. Under sail the whole outboard motor well should be clear of the water. Anything else means it is time to think about why.
      It makes you go slower that you know what having poor trim like that. Motivation there.

      1. Thanks Chris
        I will definitely check those things out.
        I have a wood block at the top of the rudder shaft tube. Is this a usual installation?
        I think the water is coming around the bulkhead.

        1. Lee, the block is the standard config. Under your tiller casting there is a composite washer that goes over the tiller post and sits on the block. Shaft tube extends into and to the top of the block. Water comes up there if wear is present. Hard to see once things are wet. Keep a look out. I had both the rudder tube and the leaky motor mounting wood problems. The screws on my bulkhead wood were loose too causing the wood pieces to move a bit while under power. Had to borrow a friend with real long arms to get behind there through the access covers (if you have them) and hold the nuts with a pliers while I tightened the screws. That and re-caulking did it and it has been good for over 10 years now.
          Regarding motor position, my opinion is that you get the best trim with the motor adjusted so the motor shaft is as close to the rudder as you can get it while still maintaining clearance to steer with the motor working hard. There is inevitably some flex in the transom when the motor is running which can cause the motor shaft to move forward and enter the rudders turning arc space. Not good. Motor shaft just aft of that is best again, in my opinion.

    2. Lee;

      The cockpit floor is only 1 or 2″ above the water line. Additional weight in the cockpit or if the boat squats under power the cockpit may take water through the scuppers. This doesn’t happen when sailing , probably due to better trim. or due to heel. Nothing you can do about this except improve the trim or close the cockpit drain seacocks if you are going to motor a long distance.

      Dave

  35. Has anyone successfully repainted their decks. My are a beige color and there are a number of places that the white is showing thru. The surface still has good gripping texture, which I will probably loose if I paint with a two part epoxy. The price I got from a yard was $3,000. Which makes me want to do it myself or leave it alone.

    1. I owned hull #4 for 10 years. I used System 3 Waterborne polyurethane on the deck – for both smooth (white) and non-skid (tan) areas I mixed non-skid granules into the tan paint. It held up extremely well and the San Juan Tan color is a beautiful light beige – no pink tones. Really nice next to the white areas. The paint has little or no odor and dries so quickly that you can apply three coats in the same day. Cleans up with water diluted with denatured alcohol. Highly recommended for your decks. You can get it at Jamestown Distributors online.

      Joe Conron
      ex 1978 CE Ryder Quickstep #4

  36. John Quirk, here is an early model Q24 Frankenboat with a bowsprit/ cutter rig for sale in Rhode Island. Price seems to be going down by the minute. Went down to 1500 just today. Incredible price…or are sailboats boats just that hard to sell these days?

  37. Greetings. I’m the proud new owner of a QS24. No sail number, but the hull serial number isLNUKS197L990. Would that indicate that the hull is number 0? She’s on the hard in RI, and I’m planning on sailing her home to Ithaca, NY via LI Sound and NY waterways (Hudson and Erie Canal). I will have may questions as I work to get her ready to sail next summer. Your comments will be appreciated.

    1. Looks like construction of your boat began in December of 1989 and the boat is a 1990. Hull # would be 197. See below.
      HINs By The Numbers

      A typical hull identification number (HIN) consists of 12 letters and numbers, as in ABC12345D404.

      Here’s what the letters and numbers mean:

      ABC: This is the U.S. Coast Guard-assigned manufacturer identification code (MIC). Go to the USCG Manufacturers Indentification page to access the Coast Guard’s MIC database.

      12345: This is the serial number assigned to the hull by the manufacturer. This may be a combination of letters and numbers. The letters “I,” “O,” and “Q” are excluded because they could be mistaken for numbers.

      D: This is the month of certification, indicating the month in which construction began. “A” represents January and “L” represents December. In our example, “D” means April.

      4: This is the year of certification. The number is the last digit of the year in which the boat was built. “4” in this case designates 2004.

      04: This indicates the boat’s model year.

    2. Welcome to the fleet! Cayuga lake will be a wonderful sailing grounds for a QS24. Good luck on your ambitious maiden voyage.

  38. Fleet. First season for my QS24 so still sorting things out. I’m missing the mainsail gate so the sail slugs fall out very time I raise or lower the main. Rig-Rite sells a generic mainsail gate but before I go on a wild goose chase can someone send me picture of what’s supposed to be there. Thank you. Dave E-Mail DPurnhag@Optonline.net

    1. Hi Dave
      We have no problem flaking. We use the halyard to raise the boom to its normal height by hooking it under the reefing hook. this keeps the head of the sail down and the boom up.
      works fine.
      Mark

    2. Hello Dave: I made my own gate. Thought the original was ng. I like windy days and so have to reef. Takes seconds if you are set up right. I like my sail lugs to move absolutely smoothly through the full range of the track. I made mine out of some anodized aluminum from a mast cut off a local marina gave me (bent masts are common around me after huricaine Sandy) but you could make a really sweet one out of pvc sched. 40 pipe from HD or Lowes. Cut to shape and heated sufficiently over the stove pvc can be shaped to whatever you need. Drill and tap and install. I will send you a pic of my current gate now and one or two others later in week.

    3. Dave, Had a few minutes to kill, just made a gate out of sched 40. Took me 20 mins start to finish. Not the prettiest but given I did not do any careful shaping or finishing it will still last a lifetime and work real well. Sending photos to your email. cd

      1. Chris, never thought of PVC. My job will be a little easier since the slug window is only to the starboard side of the slot. ..Thanx for the photos! Dave

        1. Dave: I forgot to mention once you cut the pvc to the half round size all you need do is heat it over a stove slowly while GENTLY clipped in vice grips or even at your boat with a berzomatic torch until it gets mushy,,,about 1 min or less. Be careful, if you heat it too fast it discolors. Then pick up with a cloth and place against your mast where you will be installing it and allow it to cool into shape while holding which will create exactly the shape of your mast. Then sand ,shape, finish. As you saw I drilled and tapped my mast for annual removal. You could simply use 3m 4200 or 5200 as well if you leave your mast up over the winter. Just apply some 3m and wrap the mast and pvc moulding with some electrical tape for the night. The adhesive will hold it just fine if you are adverse to any drilling.

  39. Hello! New member of this group. I have a Quickstep 24, and need some information about rudder bearing repairs. My main question is: How do you remove the rudder? The upper and lower bearings are both worn. I can vertically lift the rudder enough for the lower pin to clear the lower bearing, but I do not see how the lower bearing can be removed so the rudder can be dropped. Is it all just fiberglassed in place? I see a thread above, but it does not answer my main question, how is the lower bearing assemble attached to the rudder skeg? I have not yet removed several years of bottom paint. Is the bottom section come off, but mine is simply painted over so much I cannot see the seam? Thanks! Jeff aboard ALIZE in Solomons Maryland.

    1. See Chis D. post march 24, 2016. He has done this and has a video he made of the repair.
      Mark Prueser

      1. Mark, that would work but 3 or 4 slugs come to rest below the window and the main wouldn’t flake down correctly.

    2. Jeff, I think all your questions are answered in my back and forth with Mark Preuser from 3/28/16 to 5/29/16, maybe go back and read again.
      If you go to the link of my repair pictures (3/31/16) the password is ‘rudder’. The picture hosting site stinks and you have to be patient and try different things as well as constantly x out the adverts. Each picture has dialog with it which shows when you click on the individual thumbnails. The rudder is a problem on a lot of 24’s. The upper rudder tube slop can be eliminated by inserting shim stock also described in the date range given (05/29). Like it or not that’s how they made them. Easy fix though. There are other quick and dirty ways as well.

      1. Chris & Mark,

        Thank you! The password allowed me to see the photos, which confirmed what I gathered from the discussion, that you repaired the rudder without removal. I would prefer to remove the rudder. How is the rudder removed? I would prefer not to cut off the bottom section of the skeg, but it may be the most expeditious. Once the tiller head is removed from he rudder shaft, is there enough play in the upper bearings to pull the lower end aft, then drop the rudder with shaft out? On previous boats, I have successfully used split nylon bearings, which have lasted many years, even on a spade rudder. Thanks! Jeff on the Chesapeake.

        1. Once the tiller head is removed from he rudder shaft, is there enough play in the upper bearings to pull the lower end aft, then drop the rudder with shaft out?

          Answer to above..negative. There are NO bearings..see below.

          If you want to remove the rudder, get the saw out and cut off the lower pintle or at least enough to achieve what you want, not really a big deal, though not sure why you are so inclined. Read below again,,,there are no upper bearings. Some repair the upper tube by simply sealing it at the bottom and filling from the top with epoxy mixed with max amount of graphite. Let that set and then yank on the rudder. It fills all the available play with the lubricating mixture and fixes the problem. I would lubricate my rudder post before doing this epoxy repair. It would suck with high vacuum if you did this and ended up epoxying your rudder stationary forever. I like wax, epoxy is unaffected by it. Same with the lower pintle. Raise your rudder where you want it to live, support it, then build a dam around it and fill around the worn area in the pintle with the same pox/gragh mix. When that kicks, your rudder is in place and lubricated for the next 30 years, nice and quick and easy. Soda bottle strips worked for me are easy to do, easy to replace, Just think of them as cheap split bearings, cause that’s what they are. Remember it is only a pvc tube. Where will you put split bearings much thicker than a soda bottles plastic? My rudder is free of play and no water comes up while motoring any longer. I can not ask for more.

          Mark Prueser
          May 29, 2016 at 7:42 am

          Chris D. Did you replace the upper bearing at the same time you did the lower bearing? After sailing Summer Wind for a couple of days I see there is a lot of slop on the tiller. When I had the boat out of the water, looking at the upper, it looked like it might be some sought of cutlass bearing.
          I might want to pull it and replace in the fall.
          Reply

          Chris D.
          May 29, 2016 at 10:13 am

          Mark: There really is no upper bearing. It is a tube, pvc I presume glassed into place. It can be seen by sticking your head into the bilge area with the step removed with a flashlight. This tube wears too. Mine was anyway as were others on other boats I owned. To remove the rudder the lower skeg/pintle must be taken off to a greater or lesser degree and the rudder dropped straight down. There is not enough flex in the shaft to remove the rudder with the skeg/ pintle in the way. Upper rudder shaft is over an inch of solid bronze. Then the skeg / pintle / bushing is rebuilt with fiberglass. Sounds somewhat harder than it is. (Or you can use the method I showed you in previous posts to replace the bushing) There are several ways to fix slop in the upper. Easy one that you can do with boat in the water in less than an hour? Take a liter plastic soda bottle, cut it into strips about 8″ long as I recall, remove your tiller casting on top of the rudder shaft and feed the soda bottle strips into the tube leaving some material bent over at the top so you can remove it if you ever want to. You will probably need a puller to get the casting off as it is on pretty good with a key as well. Make sure you put the soda bottle strips all around the tiller shaft so that the soda bottle becomes a sacrificial space filling bearing which can be replaced and will also eliminate any further wear on your upper tube. It also eliminates any water that may find its way up the tube in a following sea or while motoring.. It can be a seasonal check item if you wish after that. I sail my boat 1000 miles a year give or take a hundred or so and the soda bottle strips are still good, in that I still have only desirable play in the tube years later. If you want the harder and more complex method, let me know. cd

          http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html
          A puller like the larger one pictured here will do the job with ease.

    3. Lower Bearing repair resolution: Thanks for the assist. The boat is repaired and back in the water now. As others pointed out, the rudder cannot be removed without cutting the skeg, but the lower bearing repair was quite possible. As advised, I lifted the rudder vertically enough that the lower end was free of the bearing/shoe on the skeg. I cleaned the hole, put tape across the top and bottom of the bearing, and then epoxied it back in place. As soon as the epoxy started to set, I dropped the shaft back into the bearing, and let it set completely. The bronze bearing was a bit worn, but the issue was that the bearing had come loose, and worn away the fiberglass around it. After a couple hours, all was tight. Rolled on a coat of bottom paint, and back in she went. I would have liked to do something more precise, but it is a firm fit that will last a couple of season. Top bearing is only slightly loose, but I will shim that shortly.

      1. Jeff…Thanks for your update on your resolution,,very much a rarity around here. I bet it will last longer than a couple of years. Hope you are getting more wind down there than we have here. Calmest summer I can remember ever. And I’m getting old. That said the huricaines should start any minute. Chris

      2. On my Q24 the bottom of the rudder is a pin that goes into the little hole at the bottom. It looks like it should have a bushing or bearing in there but there isnt anything – just the fiberglass (i guess) hole. Is this the design or is something missing?

        1. Mine has a bronze bushing, which I was able to remove and re-epoxy in place by sliding the rudder up. Not an ideal design, but it has worked for many years.

  40. QS24 Fleet. Working on commissioning my recently purchased QS24 and I’m looking for advice re: running lines aft. I thought this would be easy but the roof liner presents a major difficultly in terms of through bolting . What I’m thinking for season #1 are 3 turning blocks ( attached to mast.) , triple deck turning blocks, and triple rope clutch followed by a small winch, port side to handle the main halyard, reef line, and ? I will just semi-permanently belay the roller furling genoa halyard to the original equipment starboard mast mounted winch/cleat. The cabin roof will look like Swiss cheese once I finish drilling all of the necessary holes. Furthermore if the roof is balsa cored I will have to over drill and fill each hole with epoxy first, then re-drill the holes. Any thoughts, pics of your lines aft setups and what was done with the roof liner would be welcomed – Dave.

    1. Dave: consider installing a halyard organizer plate under your current fitting. I use a mast hinge because I raise and lower my own mast. Dwyer mast, the company that provided the mast to QS sells them. Here is the website. https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates The larger one is the one you want. You attach 3 pulleys on each side via shackle. From there to Harken turning blocks, I used these http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5649&taxid=1329 From there straight through a triple rope clutch, I like Spinlock products then to a small winch. I used the smallest Andersen stainless steel model but I don’t think they make them any longer. Send me your email and I will send you pictures of my installation if you would like.

      1. Chris; I have nothing against an organizer plate, except that I would then have to remove the mast step, disconnect and re-route mast wiring and drill more holes in the cabin roof. I’m hoping to launch as soon as possible, the only preparation being extra long halyards and then complete running the lines aft after sailing the boat for a while. In fact the previous owner left me with a never used custom made organizer plate with a cutout and collar for the mast which I could drop over the mast step without removing the step or wiring. Yes, I’d like to see your setup. My e-mail address is DPurnhag@Optonline.net. How did you handle the cabin liner when you mounted the hardware? Regards. Dave

        1. Dave: No need to drill more holes for a halyard plate. Remove the mast yes. The aluminum casting has 2 screw holes and one wiring hole drilled in it on my boat. You simply position your casting on halyard plate and mark and drill the 3 holes in the appropriate placs and use your existing cabin top holes.. The wiring hole may require you to find someone with a drill press if you don”t have one. Any machinist will do it in 2 mins. Drill stainless slowly, with oil, and high drill pressure. Otherwise the metal will heat and harden. Not sure about the custom idea and collar you have. From your description I would not trust it raising my mast.
          Regarding the headliner, There is at points 1/8″ or so of space between the headliner and the actual cabin top underside. Position your hardware with tape, test it with light lines/ cord to assure proper location, and then drill when satisfied. I stick cut down allen keys in the holes and remove about 3/8″ radius of core and fill with epoxy/silica mix and re-drill.
          Then from the underside I use a cleaned out caulking tube, the cheap stuff from HD or Lowes for house painting which is water based. either blow out or push out the inner push part shorten it up to a couple of inches and fill with some epoxy/silica and shoot that into the space between the liner and cabin top.
          Once that hardens you will have a rock hard and solid place to put your backing plate or stainless fender washers. On my Harken organizers I used fender washers but on the winches I put backing plates. All forces are in shear so the plate is probably unnecessary anyway but since I raise the mast with the winch I did not want to take any chances.
          I will bring my camera today when I go to the boat and take some pics and forward.

          1. Thanks Chris; I like your idea of filling the air gap with epoxy – except I have more like a 3/8″ air gap – so I may need a more viscous mixture – looking forward to your photos…I’ll take a photo of my unused organizer plate for what its worth. Dave

          2. Dave: Epoxy and Silica https://www.amazon.com/System-Three-3105S16-Silica-Thickener/dp/B013K2WU9S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496936610&sr=8-1&keywords=silica+for+epoxy ..make as viscous mixture as you like. Far superior to wood flour. Weighs little costs a bit and goes a long way. I had areas of 3/8 as well. You can fill anything with the mixture. Actually you want it to spread above the headliner so you have essentially a solid sandwich from deck to headliner in all areas under the hardware. It will be rock solid. Pictures to your email shortly.

          3. Dave: Let me know if you got the pics. I sent about 10 meg..sometimes files that big get rejected. cd

          4. I’ve worked with the silica additive before Chris, great stuff. might actually have some in my epoxy box.

          5. Hi Chris: I’m also interested in seeing pictures of the plate and hinge. I’d like to be able to raise and lower the mast myself.My email is crunci@runcigroup.com Thx for all of our great posts! – Chris R

          6. Chris R Things are still covered. As soon as I get up there I’ll take some photos of the hinge plate and the frame I use and give trying to describe it a go. Less than a week or two and I should be at it. Meanwhile Dwyer Mast website https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=20&cat1Name=Masts&familyID=43&familyName=DM-500+Mast
            This page is the one for the mast Quickstep used. It was specified by Brewer.
            https://www.dwyermast.com/itemdetails.asp?itemID=539

      2. Dave: An afterthought. If you use epoxy to fill above headliner it’s probably best to use slow speed hardener and monitor the level of heat that develops while it cures. I remembered my headliner got rather hot and I had a moment of worry running into the house to get some ice and a towel to hold it up to the underside when I thought it would begin to melt the headliner. In the end it did not, but I did mine in the winter . With 3/8 inch you will develop a good deal of heat up there during the hottest part of the cure. Curing epoxy will easily melt a plastic container or worse.

        1. Lee: Things are still covered. As soon as I get up there I’ll take some photos of the hinge plate and the frame I use and give trying to describe it a go. Less than a week or two and I should be at it. Meanwhile Dwyer Mast website https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=20&cat1Name=Masts&familyID=43&familyName=DM-500+Mast
          This page is the one for the mast Quickstep used. It was specified by Brewer.
          https://www.dwyermast.com/itemdetails.asp?itemID=539

  41. Does anyone in the 24ft fleet have a bowsprite attached to their Quick step? If so , how can I go about this without breaking the bank. John Q

    1. John: Why..the boat sails well as is, probably won’t after you mess up the geometry with a sprit. Looks pretty fair too. Ted Brewer is one of the best naval architects. Compac designed several boats that did not sail worth a damn until they retrofitted the newer models with bowsprits. Their C23 was one of them. I am sure I could easily fit a C23 sprit to my Q24 if I had enough to drink that weekend. Who knows might look good and only ruin the boats balance a little bit. Here is the Compac address for the bowsprit kit for a 23. You will also need a bobstay.

      Click to access AADHttjwMACdw5Voo2NYBoLVa

      1. And a new forestay / furler modifications assuming you will move the headstay to the sprit. And a modification to your bow pulpit. Sail mods too prob.

  42. Hello Quickstepers,

    I am the prior owner of number 123 made by Dyer (with a Shannon crew, I’m told) a beautiful diesel model, which I miss.

    I have two sails and a Fairclough cover for sale.

    1.Never used tanbark (red) hank on storm sail, very heavy duty. Luff 192” Leech 151” foot 82”.
    $250 seems reasonable but open to thoughts.

    2. Older, decent, never patched tanbark, hank on genoa. Luff 328 (27’4”) Foot 178” ( 14’ 10”).
    $200 seems reasonable, but open to thoughts.

    These were measured in my small living room and are close but not exact.

    These are in Boston.

    Feel free to contact me. David Rosmarin
    rosmarin.david@gmail.com

  43. Anyone have a marine head in their Q24 who would take pictures of the installation including positioning and plumbing and tankage? I want to install one in my 24 but local boats all have porta pots. Thanks.

    1. Chris. I have 1 photo of an installed marine head for a QS24 I was interested in before buying my present ‘porta potti’ model. It doesn’t help much in terms of plumbing or tankage but may be useful . I don’t know how to post a picture here but you can E-Mail me at DPurnhag@Optonline.net. Dave

  44. We have a Tohatsu MFS6CSUL ,extra long shaft. Quite happy with it. All the power we need. 5 knots at half throttle. Plenty strong for Boston harbor area.

  45. Just purchased a 1987 diesel QS24 by Dyer. I’m trying to winterize it and fill the tank with bio treated fuel to prevent condensaion. The problem is there doesn’t seem to be any way to determine the tank level – there are no gages and a flexible stick doesn’t seem to make the fuel fill hose bend. In fact I cant find the fuel tank! Its probably under the cockpit floor. Anyone have any suggestions? Dave

    1. Tank should be full prior to winterizing. Empty tanks invite condensation. Best to fill tank, change the filter and treat, it’s not like you have a 20 gallon tank hiding somewhere. Maybe 4 or 6 tops?. Finally bleed the fuel lines to ensure no air. That said, Dyer…AKA Anchorage Boats is still in business. Address: 57 Miller St, Warren, RI 02885
      Phone: (401) 245-3300. Ryder, Dyer, Shannon, Quickstep all did business in the same town and pretty much on the same street in Bristol. Dyer and Shannon remain in business. No time like now to check the level of their customer service for a quick answer on fuel tank location.
      Never crawled around a Q24D but most boat manufacturers were real sadists when it comes to fuel and often water tank placement.

      1. Thanks for the help guys. Ill see if I can get a more bendy and longer stick down the filler. I don’t want to fill up the fill hose too far because there’s evidence of fuel leak over on the starboard 1/4 beth near the hose. But Ill try calling Dyer first.

        1. Dave, This might be a nice thing to have aboard..could cut to size.
          http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-4-in-x-15-ft-Drain-Auger-BC91015/100540673
          Unless you know the angle and position your dip stick is entering the tank you cannot really know the level. Might go in at a 15degree angle and be wet for four feet and still be half full.
          Does your boat not have a pull up floor board in the cabin sole? Can you see the tank by removing the companionway step and poking your head in to look under the cabin sole? If it is plastic you may be able to see the fuel in the tank like you can in most plastic tanks using a flashlight against the plastic side. .

          1. There appears to be a removable inspection port at the foot of the starboard 1/4 berth. Can’t imagine crawling in there head first each time I need to get tank level. Off on vacation for a few weeks. Check it out when I return

          2. Finally got a chance to investigate further. The plastic fuel tank is behind the engine under the cockpit floor. Its 10 gal. plus. and there appears to be no level gage. Its not transparent enough to see the level … its probably the original tank from 1987. ( wish I knew how to post a picture). The fill hose goes to almost horizontal near the tank fill port then makes a right angle bend . An electric snake wont make the bend. I might have better luck with a plumbing snake . However, there appears to be a fuel oil sheen near the hose fittings. To fix that I’d have to remove the cockpit floor. So I might as well replace the tank with a new one equipped with a level gage in the spring. So, no need to top off the tank this winter. Dave

  46. Just hauled my Q 24 for the season. We have only had her for one season but I need to attend to the bottom. It has not been sanded or scraped in 25 years. I didn’t want to go the sand blasting route so I am scraping and sanding. The boat tests very dry on a moisture meter and I am thinking I will skip the barrier coating process.
    Any thoughts.
    Thanks
    Mark

  47. We have been sailing our Q24 with a 135 jib. We have a 100 jib that was new when we purchased the boat. We sailed it the first time today and found that with the existing track and sheeting outside the shrouds we could not pull the jib in tight enough when closehauled. We had the car as far forward as we could get it. Does anyone sail with a 100 jib? If so can you give us any pointers?

    1. All boats are said to be a compromise. Any small boat with jib cars on the rail will be a relatively poor performer to weather as compared to one with the cars placed more inboard. Look at any race boat, they have stays well inboard of the rail and jib car tracks are inboard as well. This allows tight sheeting and superior weather performance. It greatly narrows the slot. I am guessing you have hank on sails. Most all Q24’s have been upgraded with furlers. Pennant length is up to the owner. Are you sweeping your deck, hitting the anchor, getting tangled in the pulpit going downwind? I’d bet the reason the 100 is ‘new’ is because each owner has found it is of little use unless you are going off the wind in a fair breeze and will end up staying new and in the bag.
      Solutions….Get a 135 and a furler. Sell the hank on sails to a die hard. Even with the 135 the Q24 is not a great performer to weather though she will tack to less than 45 degrees. She will do so easily especially if the rig is tuned right (correct stay tensions) spring for or borrow a tension tool. And when the wind is up and the headsail is furled to say…100% she probably sails worse than your hank on 100 due to loss of shape. I usually reef my main before I start to furl my head sail to a smaller size but usually it is in proportion as the wind goes up. Look at a similar sized 24 foot race boat, a J24 for instance and in the course of 10 miles you will beat a Q24 by a good 10 minutes. Of course you will need a crew of 4 and all the misery that goes with it. Look at the Bridges Point 24 weekender, nice traditional boat with a modern sail and deck plan or an Alerion 28….now there is a honey of a boat.
      If you are truly determined you could replace your current jib tracks with longer ones enabling you to trim better. Or add shorter ones forward of the current ones and move your sheets. Get real crazy and put some on the deck like one of these other boats. Probably expose other problems and won’t buy you much though it might be fun if you like experimentation. I know I do and since it’s your boat, lets drill holes!

      Ted Brewer, designer of Q24 as well as many other boats, wrote a book called Understanding Boat Design. Good starting point and if you read even this one book you will never look at a boat the same again. It enables you to see what the intention of a design is , what it should be capable of , if it is a good performer or even ask yourself…. what the heck was this guy thinking… It is only 11 bucks on Amazon and well worth it. Maybe spark a winter’s reading on yacht design.

      1. Not sure who sent the reply on my jib question. you mentioned shroud tension. I have a tension guage by I can’t find any tensioning guide lines. the rigger that stepped my mast told me to keep very little tension on. He set them at 6%.

        1. Sorry, who else is so wordy with their answers. There is no magic one size fits all number . Many guys have their rigs way to tight. That is why you see a lot of boats with a depression in the cabin top in boats like the Q24 which has no compression post. Bad news. They are trying to drive the mast through the cabin top with rig tension. Can’t sell a boat like that to me. What you want is the rig to be tight enough that in a driving wind on a reach your lee stay is not loose on either tack. Yes on a small catamaran you want the wire flailing around but not on a keel boat. Takes a bit of work and trial and error. Then tension measurements can be taken and duplicated seasonally or periodically to account for wire stretch. Watch the video at the top of the Loos website link below..might be helpful..
          You want the mast perpendicular to the earth side to side with a balanced boat, I dont like any rake on my mast and the mast straight with no curves or twists in it when looking up the sail track and tension set correctly on all wires respectively. First time takes a while. I drop my mast myself and trailer the boat home every year so I count turns on the turnbuckles and jot the numbers down to make a ball park setup easy each spring.

          http://loosnaples.com/how-tos/tension-gauges

      2. For what it’s worth, on our Q21 we installed a pair of jib tracks inboard on the cabin top with a couple of cam cleats to make single handling easier. There’s usually enough wind here (Door County, WI) that we don’t change headsails often and for daysailing the 110 on the furler serves us well. The cabin top jib tracks clearly improved our boat’s ability to sail to weather and weren’t difficult to install.

        1. Hi Bill.

          Nice to meet you.

          I just bought a 1989 Q21 without an out board.

          I have a 5 HP outboard. is that good enough to keep me out of trouble?

          Thanks,
          Tom

          1. Hi Tom! Glad to hear about the new boat. If you send me the particulars, I’ll update the fleet registry. As far as outboards go, we operated for years with a 4hp Yamaha that did just fine on an inland lake. Here, we use an 8hp which might be a bit of overkill. Most important is how well the motor fits the boat. The biggest issue, from my point of view, is the prop leaving the water as the boat is underway and conditions are not perfect. If your 5hp is a long shaft and sits deep enough to avoid leaving the water, I’d go with it. If after using it for a season it doesn’t work… replace it then. Have a great holiday season!

    1. Good day Joseph, I own Quickstep 24 Hull 141 and am planning on listing it later this month. Boat is located in Halifax , NS, Canada. It comes with a Triad trailer. Boat is in excellent condition. Our sailing season is quite short so she spends great deal of year out of water, under cover.
      Regards
      Jamie Horton

  48. My dual rope clutch for the halyards that sits on the startboard cabintop seems to be about done and has too much play to keep my sails properly up. It seems to be the 1988 original. Would be interested to know what the fleet has done to either repair or replace this dual clutch.

    Thanks,

    Justin Kermond
    #153 Q24
    “Forever Young”
    Harwichport MA

    1. My 1989 does not have this dual rope clutch. We simply have two cleats on the mast, one on either side. Works fine.

      1. I doubt a canvas cover came with the boat. For a prince’s ransom Fairclough.com will make one for you or many other Mom and Pop custom marine canvas shop as well. Or you can make the frame yourself in an afternoon. I can send you photos of my frame it it would be helpful or I can put them on a photo hosting site I use. There are as many variations as there are sailors with short arms and deep pockets. A 20×30 tarp covers a Q24 with a frame you can stand up in the cockpit under beautifully. A good white one for 60 bucks from Eastern Trailer will last 2 seasons at least and handle 2 feet of wet snow no problem. And in my case Hurricane Sandy with no problems. A 20×30 Harbor freight blue tarp lasts about 6 months for 22bucks. Good for a winter.
        Canvas covers get moldy when stored, are very heavy, become hot and stinky and after a few years begin to leak anyway causing the need to spend on repairs which can easily exceed the price of several top of the line new tarps. Not an option for my wallets owner.

    2. Justin: No clutches on my boat originally. I had 2 clunky cleats on the mast which I now ignore. Backup purposes only. For my sailing purposes they were dangerous though a cheap solution for Qstep to sell a boat with. Replaced with 2 Spinlock triple clutches, port and stbd along with 2 small winches and two Harken 3 block organizers at the mast base to lead the lines to the winch and clutch. (Winches are Andersens though I am not sure they still make the smallest single speed model 6 any longer but others are available) I also have a halyard plate under the mast hinge used for mast raising and lowering made for the mast by Dwyermast.com. which allows fitting pulleys to lead lines from the mast to the organizer blocks. From the cockpit I can raise lower and cleat all sails, main, jib , and asymmetric as well as drop and reef the main, control lazy jacks and outhaul. Oh yeah, had an extra which I use for the topping lift too. Everything is right there and I can steer the boat at the same time. Spinlocks are excellent and parts are available at many marine stores or directly from Spinlock. Sounds like a lot but I sail the boat kind of hard and usually singlehanded. Don’t know how to post a pic here. If you want one let me know. I believe the Webmaster will forward email adds.
      https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=20&cat1Name=Masts&familyID=43&familyName=DM%2D500+Mast
      scroll to see the halyard plate and mast hinge.
      Sadly, this stuff is not cheap..think Ebay and search there often. I got all mine new but off season for less than 1/2 of list. Though if that is an Awlgrip job on your boat then this is just chump change! PS..topsides and deck look sweet! I just did all my nonskid over with Awlgrip and Griptex this spring. It was a much bigger job than I expected and about 80 hours total and 500 in materials alone. Remove all hdware, sand all molded nonskid off, 2 coats of Awlgrip primer, then finally the topcoat with flattening agent and Griptex and on and on it went. Finally re-bed all hardware. Looks good though. I went with Kingston Grey with 10% Cloud White which came out really well. Maybe the topsides next season but my gelcoat is still real nice. Just tired of the white and may want a change. See what the wallet says next spring.

    3. Justin: Not sure why but my reply to you fell under the Canvas cover question. I musta screwed something up.

  49. An opinion on engine size here…A 4hp will push the boat. However if you need the motor on other than a blue bird day more power is better. Certainly no more than 8hp or 9.8. Motors are not only for days without wind. You can find yourself out in too much wind for you to handle and need to make harbor motoring into the wind. A 4hp or 6hp may be at full throttle with the boat going backwards. Add a bit of current or tide or both coming at you and you will definitely be going backwards. Go up the East River from Upper NY Bay into the Long Island Sound and there is no substitute for power. Tides, winds and currents are found in most sailing locations.
    Backing up is another area where moderate additional HP is handy. The toy props on smaller engines simply cannot slow, then stop, then reverse the boat quick enough under most circumstances.

    1. Justin – interested in your stern modification – I think I have a problem with intake plugging with unit in water all time – was modification difficult?
      terry

  50. I recently purchased a Quickstep 24 and need a outboard with a little more power than our Torqueedo 2 hp electric. What is the recommended hp and shaft length? Thanks for hosting this community forum!

    1. Victoria, Quickstep originally recommended an 8HP motor with a 20 inch shaft. I use my 24 around NJ, NY around the upper lower bays, Long Island sound and immediate coastal waters and found an 8hp to be fine. If I had the money to spend I would try a 6hp 25″ shaft but my current Tohatsu has no plans of giving up any time soon. Check Craigslist, search under ‘boat parts’ and use Tohatsu, Nissan, Mercury along with 8hp or 6hp or 9.8hp. There is usually one or two for sale up here in new condition and a year old or so for 1000.
      Tohatsu, Nissan, and Mercury motors are all the same inside, all made by Tohatsu. Only the 6 hp longshaft comes with a charging system to charge your battery. Also, the Tohatsu and Nissan 9.8hp engines are the same as the 8HP except they have a different carburetor which gives them more power. So for the same price used…why not get a 9.8. They weigh the same.
      You can buy Tohatsu and Nissans and Honda motors online. I got mine at this place but there are others or you can buy locally for a few hundred dollars more.
      http://onlineoutboards.com/ I had a pleasant purchase experience. FedEX delivered my engine. Check for locations of authorized repair locations before buying any engine brand. West Marine sells Mercury engines but if it breaks you need to take it to a service shop in your area, so what is the advantage of giving West 300 dollars more? Manufacturer websites provide this information. I have had no problems with my engine but before I bought it I called a local service shop and asked if they had any objections to me bringing in an internet engine for service and there was no push back at all.
      Remember…the longer the shaft and the higher the horsepower the greater the force which will be applied to your Q24’s teak motor mount. Don’t get crazy…any more than 8HP or so is wasted due to boat weight and hull speed anyway. Chris D.

    2. We have a 6hp tohatsu Sail Pro with 25″ shaft. Pushes the boat at 5 kts using less than half throttle. We just brought the boat up from Marion Ma. to Winthrop Ma a 70 mile trip. We had wind for 1 hour and used the engine the rest of the time. Burned about 4.5 gallons of gas and ran great.

      1. New to the group. Just bought a Quickstep 24 in fall of 2017 for use in eastern LI Sound and BI Sound and am thinking about changing out the 20-yr old 9.9 Yanmar for a Tohatsu 6 hp Sail Pro with high thrust prop. Think the 6 hp will be fine for me too but just want to ask question on shaft length. Tohatsu says to measure from top of transom mount edge down to bottom of hull to determine shaft length. Other sites say that adding 2-3 inches below bottom of hull can be beneficial on a non-planing hull like a sailboat. I’ll go measure tomorrow but I see from this 24 June 2016 Post that the 25″ shaft seems to work fine for you. I believe the current 9.9 is a 20″ shaft and it seemed to be fine too although I wasn’t out in anything too heavy. Any more thoughts from folks on 20 versus 25″ shaft shafts?
        Thanks in advance!

    3. Victoria, this season I am replacing the existing Honda 4 stroke 8 hp 25″ extra long shaft that I have on my 1989 Quickstep with a new one with electric start. 8hp is more than enough engine for my boat. Like others on this board, I do not run it at full throttle. I’ll be selling the old one which runs just fine but is manual start if you have any interest

  51. We purchased a Quickstep 24 last fall at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum Auction and have been getting to know her over the winter. We had a Torqueedo electric motor on the boat (2 hp) but need a little more hp to get it in and out of the narrows. Trying to find recommendations on what hp is recommended and shaft length for optimal performance without too much drag while under sail.

  52. Ref: Quickstep 24 “Erin”. One os the sheaves on my masthead has failed. I would like to replace all the sheaves at on time ( boat is in the water). Does anyone know the size of the sheaves or have a drawing or picture of the masthead?
    Thanks,
    Mike

    1. Mike: The standing rigging for Q24’s was and is still made by Dwyer Mast Company. The Q24 uses their DM500 section and associated parts and was Brewers original spec.
      http://www.dwyermast.com

      This following page shows the masthead part and some other associated fittings.
      https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=20&cat1Name=&familyID=43&familyName=DM-500+Mast

      I have sourced from them for my Q24 and other projects and they are quite helpful and reasonably priced considering the quality.
      They may even sell you sheaves instead of the whole assm. but for 175.00 it is probably time to go for new. That way there will be no worries up there.

      You can make sheaves out of delrin sheet if you have the tooling should new not be available.
      Schaefer and Ronstan sell sheaves of various sizes as well as other companies.
      Remember that the diameter of the sheaves is not really critical as long as they fit and do the job. No need to get hung up on size beyond width and bolt hole size. Width is important as the line must not roll off the sheave inside the masthead.

      And, yes you can go up the mast on the boat and work up there while she is in the water. Gets a bit dicey though. I wanted to get down quick (antenna). I’m 175 lbs. Would not send anyone up there much heavier. Hopefully your current sheaves will handle the load.
      Chris D.

    2. Mike: Looks like Dwyer does sell the sheaves. On the second link in my previous reply click on the masthead rig and you will see the exploded view and all parts. cd

  53. I purchased a Quickstep 24 in the fall. I noticed the rudder has about 1 1/2 inch of space between the top of the rudder and the hull. The skeg is only about an 1 1/2 deep. What keeps the rudder from accidentally moving up and out of the skeg?

    1. Your rudders lower pintle or skeg point is worn. Some Q24’s did not have any bearings at the bottom and the rudder simply was inserted into fiberglass which filled the lower pintle/support point. Others left at mooring without the tiller tied suffer from excessive wear. Once it wears down enough room then exists to be able to raise the rudder enough to literally lift the rudder out of the lower pintle. Not a good situation but easily fixed. I have repaired mine. It took an hour a day for a few days, had to wait a day for resin to cure before each additional step was taken. There are easy ways and not so easy but better ways. I have some pictures of my repair on a photo hosting site from a few years ago. if you are interested let me know here and I will look for the link and information.

      1. http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/slip134/library/Quickstep%2024?sort=2&page=1

        This is the link with my rudder repair pictures. I used a bronze bushing and if I had it to do again I would use a delrin bushing. Q24 rudder shaft has a lower diameter of 3/4″ and delrin bushing are available on Ebay for a few bucks. If I notice any wear in the bushing I am going to re-do it with a delrin bushing. I am concerned that the bronze bushing will cause wear on the rudder shaft. Time will tell. Anyway, I am an amateur and nothing is perfect the first time….Hope this helps..

        1. Hi Chris
          Thank you for the link. My rudder shaft and the bushing appear to be in good shape. However the bushing is level with the skeg. Yours appears to be above the skeg. My concern is the clearance at the top of the rudder below the hull. It looks normal as compared to other pictures I have looked at. The clearance would allow you to lift the rudder to remove it from the bushing if necessary. My question is what prevents the rudder from somehow rising up and popping out of the bushing? Say for example it hits a lobster pot bouy?

          1. Mark, the rudder has to be captivated between the upper travel limit (the hull) and the lower limit (the skeg). If there is too much room between the two the rudder can lift up and pop out at the lower end as you suspect. In order to captivate the rudder between the two points you have to make the space between the two points smaller. That is what I did, I put a bushing in at a height about 3/8 inches higher than it was originally. Now there is simply not enough room for the rudder to come up and allow the lower end of the rudder shaft to pop out before the top of the rudder contacts the upper travel limit…the hull. I have seen a number of Q24’s and this is a problem with a number of them. Basically I would say it is from wear or just a sloppy build from day one. If you figure another way to repair this problem please let me know though I cannot imagine what it will be. CD

          2. Mark: I am having trouble posting my reply and do not want to clutter the board here. The short of it is you have to create a condition where your rudder is captivated between the upper and lower support points. In my case I did it by adding material and a bushing to the lower point making the lower skeg support to be 3/8 inches higher than originally. Now the space between the upper and lower supports is smaller and the rudder shaft is captivated and the rudder can no longer pop out of the skeg. I cannot imagine another way of solving this correctly. You could put a collar around the exposed upper shaft of your rudder which will simply stop the rudder from coming up. Tie a rope around the exposed upper shaft. That would be a cheap and dirty ‘fix’. Rudder will hit the rope before the lower end comes out. As far as ‘comfort’ goes, Quickstep may have been comfortable but I was not. I have seen much more expensive boats with much sloppier work embedded in them. Hit a submerged item and your rudder pops out. Hit hard enough and your rudder shaft bends and maybe your upper rudder tube cracks or worse and then you have a real problem. If you are in the NJ area and need a hand I will be happy to work with you. Chris

        2. Hi Chris
          I didn’t realize at first, that there was narrative with the pictures. I have now learned that my boat which is also an LNUKS H.I.N. was built by Tillotson Pearson. It was built with a bushing in the pintle. My boat is a 1989 so it is a change they made the following year. There is no apparent wear on the pintle or the bushing
          so they must have been comfortable with the clearance on top of the rudder.
          I hope the photo link stays active in the event I need to go to this next step.
          Thanks
          Mark

          1. Hi Chris
            Thank you for all your feedback, it was very helpful. I will post what I come up with as a solution. I way just tie a rope on the top of the post as you suggest. Also thank you again for the info on the builders of the Quickstep 24, great research.
            Mark

      2. Hi Chris
        I tried to fashion a nylon shaft collar to fit. The thickness was only half inch, but it was still too thick. I ground it down on opposite sides to clear the rudder and the hull but still to tight. I ended up using nylon wire ties. I put them together end to end and tightened them up so that the closing mechanism was on either side of the shaft. After two double sets and a single tie above them, I think I have something that will work.

        1. Mark: Anything to take up the extra space and keep the rudder captivated. It is spring and time to launch is near so the adage about necessity being the mother of invention is invoked here. I feel compelled to say that I would not consider it ‘fixed’ at all, especially if you sail in the ocean. It is always a source of amazement how a nasty day on the water can find all the chinks in your armor all at once as well as adding a few more.
          A note about wire ties. If you take one and hit the locking part with a hammer…even fairly gently they always deform and often crack and break. If your rudder moves up and down and becomes the hammer and your hull the anvil your fix will fail and settle to the bottom unseen. For that reason I like the rope fix better of the two. A rope just tied around the rudder shaft will take up the space and offer shock absorbance as well as take a pounding between the rudder and hull without complaint.

      3. Chris D. Did you replace the upper bearing at the same time you did the lower bearing? After sailing Summer Wind for a couple of days I see there is a lot of slop on the tiller. When I had the boat out of the water, looking at the upper, it looked like it might be some sought of cutlass bearing.
        I might want to pull it and replace in the fall.

        1. Mark: There really is no upper bearing. It is a tube, pvc I presume glassed into place. It can be seen by sticking your head into the bilge area with the step removed with a flashlight. This tube wears too. Mine was anyway as were others on other boats I owned. To remove the rudder the lower skeg/pintle must be taken off to a greater or lesser degree and the rudder dropped straight down. There is not enough flex in the shaft to remove the rudder with the skeg/ pintle in the way. Upper rudder shaft is over an inch of solid bronze. Then the skeg / pintle / bushing is rebuilt with fiberglass. Sounds somewhat harder than it is. (Or you can use the method I showed you in previous posts to replace the bushing) There are several ways to fix slop in the upper. Easy one that you can do with boat in the water in less than an hour? Take a liter plastic soda bottle, cut it into strips about 8″ long as I recall, remove your tiller casting on top of the rudder shaft and feed the soda bottle strips into the tube leaving some material bent over at the top so you can remove it if you ever want to. You will probably need a puller to get the casting off as it is on pretty good with a key as well. Make sure you put the soda bottle strips all around the tiller shaft so that the soda bottle becomes a sacrificial space filling bearing which can be replaced and will also eliminate any further wear on your upper tube. It also eliminates any water that may find its way up the tube in a following sea. It can be a seasonal check item if you wish after that. I sail my boat 1000 miles a year give or take a hundred or so and the soda bottle strips are still good, in that I still have only desirable play in the tube years later. If you want the harder and more complex method, let me know. cd

          http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html
          A puller like the larger one pictured here will do the job with ease.

  54. Quickstep 24 A 300 mile sail from Rockland ME to Harwichport, Cape Cod

    I had sent the following letter to the previous owner:

    Just wanted to let you know that the restored “Rising Son” boat looked great, sailed great, and motored great under her new name “Forever Young”. We got a lot of nice compliments on the paint and brightwork. That 8 hp yamaha was fantastic as we had very light winds and motored over 40 hours over the 2 leg trip with 8 days of sailing.

    For the first leg with my wife Lorraine, we sailed, motored and motor-sailed to Port Clyde, Booth bay, Bustin’s island off South Freeport and finished up in Kennebunkport. It was a very fun and gorgeous trip as we enjoyed the dramatic scenery of the Maine coast line while getting to know the boat. Here’s a quick wrap of the second leg I had sent to some friends:

    For the second leg of the trip, wind, weather, crew and engine all were great. Our boat, “Forever Young” is now on her mooring at her final destination in Harwichport down the Cape. With my brother Peter, we had a great 55 mile sail last Wed from Kennebunkport ME to the Annisquam river in Gloucester MA. The boat sailed great in these 10-15 knot breezes and handled the occasional 20 knot gust well. We spent the night on the boat docked at the Cape Ann marina surrounded by and dwarfed by sport tuna boats arriving early for the weekend tuna fishing tournament. The guy next to me filled his tank with 800 gallons of fuel while I added about a gallon and a half. On Thursday mother nature only gave us wind for 30 minutes as we left Gloucester and about an hour of wind at the end of the day as we arrived in Sandwich MA, but then left us with no wind and an 8 hour slog of 40 miles motoring in water that you could have rowed a crew shell on as we crossed Massachusetts Bay on a direct line about 15 miles offshore to Sandwich (the eastern end of the Cape Cod Canal) . We spent the night at the Sandwich marina and enjoyed a well deserved dinner and cold beers on shore. Peter’s 29 year old son, Patrick, joined us Fri AM and we motor sailed through the canal and down Buzzard’s bay and through lumpy currents at Woods hole, navigating through the many Rodney Dangerfield “Caddy Shack” boats with large wakes. We then had a great sail to Hyannisport where we stayed the night with my friend, Greg, who set us up with a mooring and beds for the night. Greg’s family’s house is right next to the Kennedy compound (the sailor’s version of friends with benefits). I gave my crew a ride back to their car in Sandwich Sat AM and I solo sailed the last 12 miles to Harwichport. A very fun adventure covering a total of about 300 miles of New England coastline.

    Here’s a shot from the first leg earlier in July from Rockland ME to Kennebunkport up in Casco Bay ME off of South Freeport with me and Lorraine.

  55. Don’t think you want to go thru the effort of pulling the O/B on a regular basis – this arrangement is another nod to asthetics at the expense of practicality. I usually pull and flush at mid-season. Other than that, I simply focus on keeping the leg and intake from getting too overgrown with barnicles by brushing on a regular basis.

  56. I just discovered the existence of the Quickstep 24 and I think I’m in love. I have 2 questions: How difficult is it to pull the outboard out of the well after each sail to flush out the salt water? Is there standing headroom down below? Thanks, Larry

    1. Most of us fall in love after seeing a Quickstep. I sail a 21, so I can’t comment about the outboard well, but I can tell you that the 24, like the 21, has sitting headroom below. That’s why the boats are so pretty. There is more than enough room for weekending aboard as we did with our kids when they were small, or just hanging out on the boat. Ours has a port a potty, a fresh water tank, a cooler, and an alcohol single burner stove. It’s simple and it’s perfect.

  57. Mark,
    Boat is still under wraps…….but finally visible now that snow has receded a bit. please contact me directly at my e-mail address (marcelandlili@yahoo.com).

    Thanks,

    Richard

  58. Happy spring. My ’87 Dyer Quickstep 24 is for sale and sits on the hard in Boston. She is a rare diesel version with only 88 hours since rebuild at Mack Boring. She has new rigging, new Harken fuller and a new genoa. She is awl gripped green with new cushions inside and out covered with Sunbrella.
    I have restored her interior and the exterior brightwork. She can be viewed at http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/47341 Best, David

  59. Hi folks,
    I am looking for a 24 in the New England area.
    There are some around but I would need to second mortgage the homestead….

  60. Hi Richard. You are correct in your thinking. I was just offering to put any two parties in touch with each other outside the blog. If both emailed me at the Quickstep21@gmail.com address, I could make sure they received each other’s email addresses off line. The gmail address comes directly to me and messages sent through it do not appear here. As a general practice, I try to avoid posting personal addresses, phone numbers, or email addresses. In the Fleet Register, for instance, I post names and locations but that’s all.
    Cheers,
    Bill

  61. Brent,
    Boat has been under wraps since it was pulled last fall. I took several photos at that time and would be happy to share them with you if you’d provide your e-mail address.

    1. Guys,
      If you do not want to post your email addresses, let me know at the quickstep21@ gmail.com address and I will forward your messages privately. Then you will have each other’s contact info without posting it to the entire blogosphere.

      Bill

      1. Hi Richard, Sorry about your illness, but wanted to check if your boat is still for sale, and if there are pictures online somewhere.

      2. Sorry to hear about your Health.
        If it is still available and u have some photos I would love to see them.
        Thank you so much,
        Larry

    1. The last numbers are the year of birth. The first letters are the builder. Q24’s were built by several builders. See the following website to understand HIN numbers http://www.hinsearchplus.com/hs_userguide.aspx
      See this website for list of builders. http://uscgboating.org/content/manufacturers-identification.php
      Quickstep 24’s were built by several builders mostly Dyer, C.E. Ryder, and a few by Shannon and the last ones by Quickstep which was really a builder name given for boats built by TPI (tillotson pearson) who is the builder of Jboats and many others. No longer building boats however they moved on to higher tech stuff.
      So given this and the websites above you can find Dyer which is really the Anchorage has a builder code of DYE. Odd but true.
      C.E. Ryder has a builder code of CER
      Shannon has a builder code of NHN…long story basically someone already had SBC in 1975.
      Lastly LNUKS builder code is Quickstep Yachts.
      If you need any other help let me know at slip134@myway.com
      Chris

    1. We own 2 Q24’s … truly great design & fun sailing boats! One is a bit of a project but well worth the effort to restore! Just getting started & looking forward to getting her back on the water. Let me know if your interested!

      1. Thanks, Bill. I’m still a bit confused over the proper protocol. I presumed if two parties were having discussion relative to a potential transaction, it would be best to have this done “off line” since it would be of no interest to anyone else. That being said, I have no problem having my e-mail address posted.

        Regards,

        Richard

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