The Q24 Fleet

Q24 Page 4

There are many beautiful Q24s sailing about, so it’s only right and proper that we have a page devoted to them.  So here we are!   If you own a 24, you’re welcome to post.  I’m happy to add pictures, too.  To post a new comment, you’ll have to scroll to the very bottom of this page- all the way down.  I’ve managed to change the formatting to display just the newest comments first, so scrolling down is no longer so tedious.  All of the older comments are still here though.  Just follow the link at the bottom of this page.




  1. Greetings, I’m sorting out the standing rigging on my recently purchased Q24. On the headstay there’s a U shaped fitting attached to the stud at the bottom of the forestay that accepts a 1/4″ pin. I plan to install a roller furler (probably a used Harken 00AL) and need a clean stud. Does this fitting hold the tack of the headsail? Then there’s 2′ of SS wire with a loop at the end swagged to the backstay about 5′ from the bottom. Also not sure what this does.

    The rest of the story – I’ve purchased the mostly finished hull and deck of Ryder hull #23 along with lots of parts the PO accumulated. In a barn since 1984, perhaps the last Q24 to be newly launched when I get there. So I’ll have lots of questions. I appreciate the help of other sailors on this site. John McCann

    1. The 2’ wire, 5’ up from the backstay is for a hook to support the boom when the sail is lowered. There should a hole at the aft end of the boom to receive the hook.

      1. Thanks, Nelson, for your help, that makes sense. I’ve also got a a light SS wire about the right length to be a topping lift. (the rigging is not attached to the mast). But perhaps this was a one off by a PO.

    2. John, I have a MKIII 00AL on my Q24. You probably should download a copy of the installation manual. I checked the Harken site but couldn’t find it. It is listed as available elsewhere but if you can’t find it, send me your email and I’ll send you a pdf of the manual. Not knowing what size U fitting etc. you have I’ll try to explain the setup. The forestay passes through the furler and is connected to top of the U fitting. The pin goes through the fitting and the bottom forks of the furler pop over the pin and prevent it from loosening. The pin looks like a double ended clevis pin. The forestay tightened before the forks popped over the pin. The sail is attached a shackle on the furler just above the drum. I think this is the only furler Harken made that has this sliding fork assembly. Sounds complicated, but once you see the illustrations in the manual it makes sense. Joe Benedict

      1. Joe, This is helpful. I’ve bumped into the manual and will retrace my steps to find it again. With that and your explanation I should be be able to install the furler. Thanks for your help and the offer to send the manual if needed.

    3. Wish I could help you. I just would like to make a request. Can someone post video of your Q24 on Youtube? Thanks!

      1. Hi Gary, not sure about a video but I’ll get some photos together and post them with a link here.

    4. John: is your Q24 a kit boat? I never knew there were such Quicksteps. I knew Ryder sold Southern Cross models unfinished. What stage of completion was it sold in? Is the interior present or do you have a clean slate. Is this common and I’m just uninformed? Thanks.

      1. Hi Chris, I’ll answer what I can. The hull and deck were purchased in 1984 without the interior, although most of the deck hardware was in place (surprisingly without backing plates.) The PO did a beautiful job with the interior and exterior woodwork, to the point of gel coating the bulkhead filets and the bilge. He copied the interior design exactly from the factory version. He also purchased a salvaged QS that had gone on the rocks and got the rig and sails off of that. The boat was in his barn most of those years. I’m now busy applying finishes and assembling motor, electronics, new sails, compass, roller furler, bilge pumps, and cruising gear.

        I previously owned a Southern Cross 28 that had been owner completed, it was a bit rough. My first boat out of college was to take over a partially completed bare hull of a Marshall Sanderling and finish that.

  2. Hello Q24 owners,
    Looking for advice on repairing or replacing my motor mount – the mount has split horizontally (with the grain) across the entire mount – clean break from 30 years of force. The mount is still firmly bedded to the well and otherwise in solid shape but the split will need to be sealed or the mount (which is basically two pieces now) joined at the break and re-mounted to the well. Or I just replace the whole thing.
    I’m any case –
    Has anyone pulled theirs out for any reason?

    1. Hello David. My motor mount on Wind Spirit also split last summer and is currently being replaced by a woodworker at our yard here on the Eggemoggin Reach in Maine, Bad design on the mount since the 2 vertical fiberglass ribs that support the mount with 2 fasteners on either side, end too short of the top of the mount, which is where the horizontal split occurred. All 4 fasteners had to be cut out because the nuts are embedded in the fiberglass ribs & were just spinning as I tied to back out the fastener. Will be replaced with either new oak or mahogany and will fasten by drilling through entire rib and fastening externally. When crack was discovered I got through balance of season by using a 16 gauge plate across the visible crack to support the engine. Hope this helps. Bill Nadeau, Sedgwick, Maine

      1. I replaced my transom motor mount with a 1/2″ Aluminum plate and covered with a skin of mahogany that wraps over the top. From the cockpit you would never know there was metal there but I will never need to worry about the stability of my engine again. I used the old transom for the pattern.

        1. Thanks Lee,
          Any issues pulling the mount out. Previous post mention nuts embedded in the glass.
          Once I back the four nuts out, am I likely to encounter other issues trying to remove the mount?
          Did you have the metal cut professionally? I have no experience really working with metal BUT I was thinking about a fiberglass board (same stuff you would use for a backing plate – can’t remember what it’s called but I’ve used it before and it’s great but expensive). That said – I also feel like a big ol piece of oak will get me another thirty years.
          Thanks very much for you repose.

          1. I do not recall any issues removing the bolts I did have the plate professionally cut (my cousin has a machine shop). When I installed I did drill through and used longer bolts.

      2. Thanks Bill,
        One of first and biggest questions I had was about embedded nuts in the well glass flanges or ribs… tried to back out nuts and for the reasons you mentioned – had zero luck. Sounds like the only move is to drill them out. Was hoping to avoid this but oh well.
        Once the nuts were drilled out – were there any other trouble spots that might prevent the whole mount from coming out cleanly – It looks like just 5200 seal on the back of the mount, where it connects to the ribs – no epoxy, etc. Is that correct?
        I’d be very curious to hear about your progress and if you have finished pics, I’d love to see how it turned out.
        My plan is to use oak or mahogany if the original mount can’t be jointed at the crack. That feels like the easy part. Hadn’t planned to “through bolt” to the ribs but that’s probably a great idea.
        I’m dreaming about coming up with some rig for a replacement mount that includes a lifting bracket so I can pull the prop out of the water – but If I’m being honest, this is more than I should take on… also, I’ve had this thought for twenty years and pretty sure I should just make piece with the Q design “flaw” and accept that our flaws make us beautiful – so have a beer and obsess about real problems (said with a grin).
        Thanks so much for your response. Very Helpful.
        Side note: I have sailed my Q to ME from MA several times, including last year to Boothbay, but years ago I sailed past Brooklin and have longed to get back. Wing and wing the whole way. Three weeks with my now wife living on a Quickstep was a trip but we’ll worth it. One day when the kids are grown I’ll get back there.
        Thanks again for your response.
        Scituate MA

    2. David. I have 2 deck plates, one on each side of the motor well under my motor hatch. I believe they were OEM on my LNUKS ’88. I can contort an arm in there holding a small ratchet and socket and use a phillips to unscrew the two screws each side. Lots of putty behind and around the board as well if your removing/replacing. If your arms are too short find a slim guy with long arms…34″ sleeve will do it easily as I’m 33″ and succeeded.
      Consider using a 1/4″ stainless plate about 5×8″ behind your engine motor mount or mount screws to disperse the stresses over a wider area. a little silicone behind the plate holds it in place. Available on ebay. Shifting fwd/ rev clumsily with too many revs is possible culprit.
      I would avoid aluminum in a saltwater environment. It will corrode quickly if not anodized or protected. I know nothing about lakes.

  3. Happy Spring Everyone! I’m still looking for photographs, diagrams, etc. of the Q24 rudder post assembly. There appears to be something(s) missing in/under the teak block. Has anyone taken the block off? In 50 years of boating I have learned it’s best to have some idea of what things are supposed to look like.

    1. The block is largely decorative and serves as an anchor for your upper rudder post which is a fiberglass tube. You have the bronze rudder shaft in the fiberglass tube then a big nylon washer over the shaft and then your tiller mounting clamp on the top of the shaft. Pretty basic stuff! What appears to be missing? You didn’t mention what the problem is.
      I’d leave the block alone unless its busted up. Depending on how its affixed it could be an adventure. Certainly glued to engine board and cockpit sole. Maybe one of these guys who changed their cracked motor boards can speak to the removal of the block as it appears to be attached to the motor board. I have only tightened my boards 4 screws and did not remove the board/block.
      Are you concerned about excessive play in the tube and water getting in?

      1. Thanks for getting back to me. I actually have another post from last year on the issue. That’s pretty much what is there on my boat. What appeared to be missing (based on other boats I have owned) was some type of replaceable bearing surface or sleeve to keep the shaft centered. It appears there never was one. The block is cracked but if it is decorative then I can just repair it – some day. My engine boards are just two layers of teak with aluminum plates plates to them and the assembly is attached to the built in fiberglass frame. There are two bolts on each side and two screws on the bottom. These screws appear to go into the teak block. Again, thanks.

        1. There is no replaceable sleeve. The rudder shaft wears the inside if the fiberglass tube causing play and water intrusion in bad cases. You can take up this extra space in the tube by inserting a thin plastic sacrificial piece into the tube surrounding the rudder shaft. I used a cut down litre soda bottle with graphite lube, leaving small folded over tabs at the top under the nylon washer to allow removal. There is no longer any play in the tube and the rudder feels smooth and snug. I pulled the plastic bearing (I’ll call it) after a year and there was some scuffing only. No real wear yet.

          1. I was wondering if an insert was possible and you answered the question. Again, thanks for the information and smooth sailing.

    1. Hi Jeff, Gordon Michalson here, recently moved to Alexandria, VA, from Sarasota, Fl. We’re returning to sail (previously owned a Com-Pac 19 followed by a Cape Dory 28 on Lake Erie), following a period of power boats for fishing on Florida’s Gulf coast. I have been on the Quickstep 24, find it beautiful, and admire its distinguished designer and series of Rhode Island builders. Unless yours has a lot of issues, it’s an obvious bargain. What year is it and what can you tell me about its condition? Thanks. or (941) 356-6654.

      1. I have not figured out how to post photos here. Contact me at (, and I’ll send you photos and information.

    2. I don’t suppose your Quickstep 24 is still available? I’m in Annapolis. Thanks.
      Steve 410-212-3468

  4. I’m looking for a stern rail for my Q 24. A prior owner removed the stern rail. I’m hoping to restore…. Any leads?

  5. Good Morning
    After 5 wonderful years sailing “Jo” QS 169, we are regrettably putting her up for sale. We are moving up to a much larger boat with anticipation of expanding our cruising experience.
    Jo comes with many extras. We bought a Triad trailer in 2017 making launch and recovery a breeze, and winter storage flexible and convenient She comes with a Fairclough cover, avoiding the need for shrink wrapping. We have added a new VHS radio, Garmin GPS, and Doyle stack pack. She has a new Harken roller furler 2 seasons ago. She also comes with a mast raising and lowering system of my own design-no crane.
    Please let me know if you know of anyone interested in purchasing this beauty.

          1. Hi Dana Please email me your contact information to and we can make arrangements.ThanksLee Lee Lane Jr. /) Past CommodoreAmerican Yacht ClubPO Box 1360Newburyport, MA 01950

      1. Hi Steve, there’s one out in NY state, finger lakes region, that shows up on facebook marketplace as being in Shrewsbury MA and another in S. Hero VT on sailboatlistings if you put quickstep for the manufacturer. both 1988, both on a trailer, and both appear to be in nice shape. good luck!

  6. New owner is asking what the mast length is. I see the “P” is 25′ so I’m guessing either 26′ or 27′. Has anyone the measure for a “standard” build? Thank you.

    1. Mine measures 27’7″ to the top plate (Hull 177.) I would suggest you attach a tape measure or rope to the main halyard, mark the halyard above the thimble/shackle/splice/knot, and hoist until the mark meets the sheave. Mark the bottom of the tape/line and lower the tape/line. Measure the total distance. Since there were multiple manufacturers, and people made modifications, over the years, this is probably the best way. Don’t forget to tie the halyard off when finished.

  7. New Q24 owner. Does anyway have photos, diagram, etc. of the rudder and rudder post assembly. Currently, the rudder can pop out of the skeg when it is amidships. There appears to be something missing in the rudder post/tiller head assembly to prevent vertical movement. The wood block is cracked and there is only the splash shield and tiller head on the top of the rudder post. I would post pictures but still trying to figure out Word Press.

      1. Really looking for info on rudder post from the cockpit sole and the tiller head. It goes through a teak block. I have seen lots of pictures of Q24’s but none of this area. I don’t even know if this is original or something else.

        1. I checked and I do have a grommet on the rudder post which prevents the rudder from lifting and possibly popping out of the skeg. If you send me your cell # I’ll send a photo of the rudder/grommet.

          1. Thanks for getting back to me. Try 630-885-0436. I have another post going that I started this year on the rudder post. Since the rudder rides up and down as you turn it (at least mine does) some movement is required. Since these are older boats, you don’t know if you are looking at the original installation or a modification.

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