There are many beautiful Q24s sailing about, so it’s only right and proper that we have a page devoted to them. So here we are! If you own a 24, you’re welcome to post. I’m happy to add pictures, too. To post a new comment, you’ll have to scroll to the very bottom of this page- all the way down. I’ve managed to change the formatting to display just the newest comments first, so scrolling down is no longer so tedious. All of the older comments are still here though. Just follow the link at the bottom of this page.
Quickstep Owners' Group 
I am looking for a good boarding ladder to use on our Q24. Any suggestions?
Unfortunately the beautiful canoe stern makes the boarding ladder situation difficult. I did a pretty comprehensive search and didn’t come up with anything satisfactory as a permanent fixture. I opted for a side mount folding removable ladder , Garelick 12048 which unfortunately isn’t in production anymore, but I had one from my previous boat. It has pins which fit into permanent receiving plates mounted just below the toe rail at lowest freeboard height just aft of mid-ships. It stows easily under the seats. If you provide me with your e-mail address I can send you a drawing. Maybe you can find some old stock on the internet (Dpurnhag@Optonline.net). In the long term I may have a custom folding ladder built for permanent mid-ships mounting. If I fall off the boat someday I want to be able to get back in.
Thanks for the helpful information. Midships or just aft seems to be the most practical placement for a ladder. I recall seeing a transom ladder in a photo of a Q24 for sale one time, but cannot find the picture. In any case, it does not seem like a good idea! I was a least able to see a photo of the Garelick 12048, which appears to be a decent design. I like the idea of a removable ladder that also mounts solidly and stores well. A permanent custom folding ladder would be even better. I will keep looking and share anything that looks good.
The problem with the new Garelick ladders is that the top piece forms a complete “U” and takes up space on deck walkway which ,as you know, is limited on a QS24. By the way, I modified the 12048 by extending the side struts to fit the curvature of the QS24 topsides. Used PVC, either 3/4″ or 1″, I forget which.
I know there is not a lot of room under the boom, but has anyone figured out way to set up a Bimini on a 24?
Setting it up is easy…its walking around with your Sperry Topsiders on your knees that’s hard. Seriously though, you could get your main shortened so your boom sits higher. Some Q,s have booms that slide. On most though you will need to relocate the gooseneck and perhaps cut a new entry in the mast for your mainsail slides. You could probably pick up a foot or more without seriously compromising boat balance/performance. And you won’t have to reef quite so soon in a stink. I vote for a good hat though I do appreciate what the Chesapeake is like on a 95 degree day with 90pct. humidity. Uffda!
New Q24 gallery has been added. Pictures of Bruce’s motor mount modifications as well. Access from welcome page. Thank you again Bill!
A few people have asked me for photos of my stern modification that allows me to raise my motor out of the water so here are a couple of links that you can cut and paste to see these and some other things. The first link is the renovation project that was done up in Rockland ME in 2013 after I bought her for a whopping $2,000… $20K later she looks pretty sweet 🙂
Here is a nice new awl grip paint, woodwork sanded, hull had all old toilet through hulls sealed and plumbing removed, barrier coat, fresh bottom paint and a new name, new battery and just a little engine work. The boat had the original cover to seal the engine hole and they build me a second one to seal up the new extended hole. I never use either of them. Anyways, here is the link (2103)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vgypPMxUHGj7w00t2
and here is one more showing both my new loose footed main (2017) and my very old 150 genoa as I got a few questions how far back does it go and some nice sailing in Nantucket Sound. I’m the guy in the green hat and the other guy is my brother, Richard
https://photos.app.goo.gl/D7Ok6bhqulUV6pYo1
she got shrink wrapped last week. My marina is more motor boat savvy. I got delayed and hadn’t got my roller furling jib off and they ended up shrink wrapping it in. yikes!!! We did a little cutting and I did my best yoga impressions to get under the shrink wrap and get the jib down 🙂
Time to break out the skis.
Happy Thanksgiving to all,
Justin
Regarding the 150 trim. I have seen 24’s with very short almost useless jib tracks. Worst case scenario longer tracks can be installed enabling proper sheeting of a 150. Your tracks (Justin) appear a bit longer than mine. I think a track extending a foot aft of the winch island would be nice. One more for the wish list.
Thanks Justin
Just purchased 1986 Quickstep 24, Aurelia. At some point she was in Hingham MA. She will now be on the upper Chesapeake on Middle River. She had a diesel that was taken out 2 owners ago. I have it in pieces.Hoping to fix it up. Looking for an oil pan and con rod for the 1gm10. Previous owner put in a clever outboard well that should allow for tilting the motor. I am looking for an outboard to use while I fix up the boat and work on the diesel. 2 options are a NOS couple of year old 5 hp Mercury 4 stroke 20″ shaft Sail Mate (60lbs) or a 30 years old new old stock Yamaha 9.9 hp 4 stroke FT 9.9 EXH electric start with a 25″ shaft (100 lbs). The Yamaha looks nice, but I am concerned about the weight. I am also concerned that the 5 hp willl not be quite enough. I am interested in any suggestions?
bruce:
Scroll down to Aug 2017 posts for some engine opinions. Many more further along in June 2016.
do you have any pics of the stern modification that allows for outboard tilt? I hate dragging mine all the time? I have a new 8 hp merc 4 stroke and it really moves the boat along nicely (it is heavy though) previously i had anold 2 strocke yamaha 6 that did the job fine and was lighter. It depends where you sail and if there a places w/ strong current. If its just getting in and out of slip the 5 would be fine. When I cross Plum Gut or the Race (L.I Sound) I am happy to have the xtra HP
I took some pics of the well today. Just have to figure how to post them.
Hi Bruce,
I would like to see the pics as well. Tired of cleaning the growth off my engine.
Mark
James, Check the site’s “Welcome” page for picture information and site administrator email.. Perhaps a Q24 Gallery page or Workshop page could be added for for curated technical or seaside pictures of yachts..
Hi Everybody. I’m going to work on updating the site over the next few days and will be happy to add a gallery specifically for the 24. I’m using a free WordPress account for this site, so I think the best way to get pictures aboard is to send them to the Quickstep21@gmail.com email address. I’ll explore a bit to see if direct posting of photos is possible, but I think I tried that before without much luck. I have a small backlog of pictures in the email account now to get on line and they will all be part of the update. I’m glad you are finding the connection with other Quickstep owners useful. Bill
Thanks for all your effort Bill. This is a great site and an invaluable resource
Bill..Mark is right. Thanks for creating and maintaining this site and allowing us Q24 owners to have a place. It is very much appreciated.
ChrisD
my thanks too!
Terry
Bruce. Welcome to the fleet: I have a 1GM10 diesel and there are conditions where I use every bit of its 9hp – motoring into a 15-20kt wind plus waves for several hours with the dodger up for instance. But if its just temporary, I’d go with the low HP , and just get a manual start. The 9.9 HP Yamaha is a great motor but you want to go light on a QS so the boat doesn’t squat under power and take in water through the scuppers. I think you want a 25″ shaft though. It will make a great backup motor in case of a problem with the diesel. Rented a QS in the Chesapeake before going ahead to purchase my boat. It was equipped with a Tohatsu 6hp manual start and it was fine, even making decent headway into a light squall. I think Tohatsu and Mercury are the same motor. Search this forum on the subject – there is a lot of information on motor selection. Dave
I’d like to see some pics too and know how it works in the real world. It might be nice to be able to leave the boat with the lower end out of the water. I have always used Pettit Alumacoat paint on my motor’s wet parts. So much better than that spray junk at 20 bucks a can. A quart lasts 10 years or longer and if you use a small brush to get into the water intake and exhaust ports you will have only negligible fouling on the motors bottom end. Never any barnacles.
I worry about cutting, filling and fairing a giant keyhole in my canoe stern, which is easy enough but may not not be such a good idea for those who sail in larger waters. . Aside from the loss of aesthetics I wonder if there is a great increase of following seas sloshing into the motor well and over the motor mount boards. I would think if you sail in more than occasional chop or any following sea of consequence the mod may have draw backs at least equal to it’s advantages. Brewer may have had a reason for the current design.
Lastly, keep a zinc on hand and check yours regularly. My neighbors at the marina have poorly designed electrical systems and they have it out for my aluminum motor. Few people understand proper grounding and could care less. They just keep replacing parts above and below the waterline. I just reach down and feel for the skeg on my Tohatsu/Merc/Nissan type engine zinc. If there is any remainder of the skeg the zinc is good enough and have never had any problem with the motor dissolving , clogging or a shortened lifespan. Lastly I don’t think I want to sail with my well hatch strung open, my motor intruding in the cockpit and most importantly getting in the way of my tiller. That is spelled safety hazard where I sail, but hey, I have an open mind…
And 25 feet of mainsheet tangled in everything just when you need to let it run fast could present a problem too come to think of it. Happens occasionally as it is if I dont mind my sheet in the cockpit.
Hi Chris
I looked for that paint after seeing your post. It has been discontinued by the manufacturer.
Mark
Hey Mark tat figures…like I said it lasts ten yrs at least and thats a quart. Interlux still makes Trilux 33. Same idea. Jamestown Distributors. Ill probably go with that when I run out. Lots more copper free biocide paints available these days…maybe thats why they dropped it. So sad.
Thanks Chris. I may try JD’s Total Boat Alumipaint AF. Got good reviews.
Bruce. Your engine mounting position is a foot back and a bit higher than the standard position. Looking at your photos, the top right one shows the upright molded in supports for the outboard just aft of the rudder post left and right. I don’t know but it looks like an OB will be cramped in there possibly limiting your ability to steer by turning the engine which may be too cramped to rotate. You may have to steer by the boats tiller only which greatly limits you in close quarters particularly when backing. That’s one of the biggest drawbacks of an IB engine in a small boat pushed by a breeze in close quarters. Since your OB will be a foot back, so too will its weight adding to the effect on boat balance leading to more hobby horsing perhaps. Do you know why it was done that way? Diesel boats have additional storage in that position which is always a bonus in addition to the diesels added stiffening ballast. I see the configuration of the cockpit sole is different too in that it extends further aft. I’d fix the IB this winter like you planned, parts are available, then repair the stern so it looks sweet again. If you want to really go full flight, put a nice little bow thruster up front.
I’m wondering if anyone (New England) has a Q24 trailer that they’re interested in selling, or even renting. I’m trying to find a way to get mine from Providence, RI area to Upstate (Finger Lakes) NY. Probably a little late to be asking for this fall. Could be after you have yours back in the water next spring. Or any other thoughts on this. Still 50/50 on sailing it back via LI Sound, Hudson River and Erie Canal in late June. But if I could get it back here for less than the outrageous quotes for regional transport services, I’d be happy to pay one of you a more than reasonable rate for one-time use. Thanks.
Second attempt at answering First got lost, misplaced or nixed. Boat hauling is a very seasonal business and this is the high season. Rates should fall come Nov. Maybe retry your quotes then. Place your own ad for a hauler on CL too at both ends…..NYS…Conn..RI..whoever does it will probably make a round trip. State boat weight, keel depth, beam etc. and have insurance.
I made my trailer from a homemade car trailer I bought cheap on CL and adapted. You can find car trailers fairly cheap on CL now and then. I got mine for 275. Had to put some work in it but still the finished product came in around 1000. I can send you pictures of it for design ideas if you would like.
Finally, consider calling UHAUL and renting an open car trailer, maybe 50 bucks a day. Next call some marinas and see if you can get a JOWI cradle…I think you need a .5 model or the next size up will work too but it is heavy. http://www.angelfire.com/nc/pamlico/jowiinterim.html They are at every marina and frequently available cheap or at times free because they are out of favor. Using some Ubolts made up by a truck suspension shop (less than 75) remove 2 boards temporarily from the UHAUL and ubolt the JOWI .5 on. Or simply drill through the boards and attach around cross members. UHaul expects wear and tear and will never notice or care. Screw down some boards along the keel each side and front and rear to prevent shifting
Use several tie down straps and some caution. Then go get your boat and bring it home. Sounds easy to me. Cheap too and a nice fall leaf drive through New England.
You’re hired! Thank you much for the info and the encouragement. Looking at those JOWl cradles, what about a bow support? Any concern about not having that? If nothing else, to discourage any totter/creep over repeated braking action. The Trion trailers I’ve seen with the model all have that. Also, trailer brakes. Thoughts? Thanks again.
Don’t over think it, you’ll get bogged down. Many rental trailer have inertia brakes. Otherwise you will need a truck with an electric brake controller. Not gonna pull this behind some FWD or mini motor thing. Full size pickup or van. 8 cylinders are always beneficial when pulling boats uphill all day. Front support can be fabricated easily of wood for one trip. Block the keel, sides and front and avoid potholes. I did weld a front V support and 2 additional flat top side supports to my trailer after a couple of years of running without. I can pretty much forget the boat is back there now.
Talking to a friend today, he said Uhaul has become something of a PITA with regard to what they rent to who. Dunno, maybe Penske or some other outfit.
Try calling trailer dealers/builders in your area or Mass, Conn, RI and see if they rent sailboat trailers and if not do they know who might. Lot of sailboats up there. Think you mean Triad? Custom trailers and prices too. Of course renting out east will make for 2 round trips. Anyway, good luck. over/out
Newby, here. The Quickstep 24 I recently purchased had an old salt motor was is beyond repair. Wondering what HP folks find works best. She’s moving to a freshwater home in the Finger Lakes (NY). She may see some Great Lakes travels. Also, thoughts on a foldable prop? No experience.
You will get a lot of different responses. I have a Tohatsu 6hp extra long shaft. We sail in the Boston area and it has been more than enough power. It also charges the house battery.
It is however a manual start. Usually starts on 1 to 2 pulls.
+1 on the Toe 6. I have an 8 electric start. I need the power at times in high current waters but the engine is heavier than I like and unnecessary extra weight at the end of a boat is not desirable, I never use the electric start as it starts in 2 pulls without fail (more extra weight there) 90lbs vs 60lbs for 8 vs 6. If you won’t need the extra hp for tides or currents then that 6 is a sweet motor. Light and strong enough for the finger lakes for sure. I wish I could get away with one. I’d sell you my nice 8 electric start…cheap.
Do they make folding props for outboards? Don’t think there would be sufficient sailing performance increase to get me to fork over the money anyway.
Ted Brewer …the boats designer suggested an 8hp for the boat. That was at the time of design when all outboards were 2 stroke and weighed half what these 4 strokers do now. So a 4 stroke 6 is about the weight of an old school 2 stroke 8. Still 2 horses less though.
BTW…buy your engine from onlineoutboards.com or similar. Sent to your home, no tax. Check to see where you can get service for a given brand in your area too before entering your card number.
Nissan and Mercury engines are all made by Tohatsu and with minor exceptions are the same.
Around me, Craigslist frequently has nearly new Tohatsu engines for sale at around 1000 in the off season. There was recently a 6 for 700 which I was jonesing for. Might want to look there.
Hi Chris
You are a wealth of information. It is much appreciated how you take the time to provide valuable insights.
Thanks
Mark
Thanks Mark…I dig these little boats and hope others will too. Though I’d take a Bridges Point 24 if the right gal sailed up beckoning me aboard. Highly unlikely. BTW a boat equivalent to a Q24 at today’s prices would run you about 75K Imagine that? Bridges Point costs that and more…Alerion 28 way more and Rustler 24’s 75K too all plus tax..nothing to sneeze at here in NJ.
I mean what would you rather have this or a perfect Q24 and 60K in the bank?
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2017/Rustler-24-2802449/Newport/RI/United-States
or a Bridges Point..so sweet
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1991/Bridges-Point-24-%26quot%3BLong-Cabin%26quot%3B-Cruiser-Sloop-2981745/Kennebunkport/ME/United-States
All 3 currently in production.
I agree. I love my boat and the 60k in the bank. We get so many positive comments on how pretty she is.
RE: QS24 “Sprig” – Thanks for your responses. My wife has declared that she’s happy about the boat, but ‘It better have a good motor.’ I’m good with the 6hp for local waters. No tide or currents. Also, considering other posts re water in the cockpit while motoring, it sounds like stern weight is an issue.
I tried to find this picture link and finally did. This is exactly how NOT to sail a Q24. Talk about water in the cockpit! Got to be splashing over the boards and a geyser up the rudder post.
https://providence.craigslist.org/boa/d/24-quickstep-sailboat/6251390774.html
Hard to tell how many people are in that boat, at least 5.
Mine came with a Yamaha 8 that is more than enough. If I needed to re-power, I think I’d save the extra weight and get a 6. I do like having the electric start. Since I am a bit overpowered, I rarely run at more than half throttle so it is a very quiet under motor. I also customized my stern as part of a paint job and hull project so that I can tilt the engine so that it just gets out of the water on the mooring which is really nice and hopefully extends its life a bit. In addition, I probably pick up a half a knot in lighter winds sailing with it tilted up. Thus I don’t need a foldable prop.
Justin
Do you have photos of your modifications that allow you to raise the motor? Would love to see them
Thanks
Lee
Another question for the Q 24 fleet. I was crawling around the boat the other day getting to know her when I noticed the most aft portion of the keel is empty and flat on the bottom. I am wondering if it is practical to mount a shoot through transducer for my depth sounder. Is the underlying keel too thick? Is there lead there?
Thanks again.
Lee
Lee: That flat area you describe is your bilge sump. It is where water collects, ideally not much, to be pumped out. There is no lead and it is about 3/8″ thick. Should be a hose down there from your bilge pump. If your transducer is waterproof I guess its fine though water on your newly installed transducer wiring may be a bad thing if it is not made to be wet.
Mine is mounted by the water tank along the center line.
Thanks Chris
Do most Q 24’s have an automatic electric bilge pump? Mine seems to have a manual bilge pump only.
Lee
Lee, that manual pump is the standard as far as I know. It is a ‘Whale Gusher’ pump. Still made and a good one. Moves a lot of water fairly quickly. Also rebuild kits available. Defender sells both. I only used mine once when I intentionally flooded the bilge to scrub it with bleach and then pump it out. Also rebuild kits available. Defender sells both. I have no other pump. Actually my bilge is usually bone dry. I mean bone. The only way water can get there is if it comes through the companionway or with a wet anchor line if your boat is healthy. If you are getting water otherwise then there is leaky hardware soaking the hull liner which eventually reaches the bilge if it is bad enough, Hose water or sea getting into the anchor deck pipe (keep the chain out side facing aft), Leaky hatches or ports. Leaky toe rail screws or chainstays…each of these will have a mold streak under them if they are leaking. Even the little holes where the bow and stern light wires exit the pulpits take in quite a bit of water during a 3 day rain or lots of spray. Close those up with silicone. Check the 2 Marelon sea cocks behind the stair too. Those can leak, the lower hose connections at the top of the sea cocks are under water all the time. My least favorite part of a Q24 that is. Exercise the valve and know that the sea cocks are capable of being tightened if they are weeping water. Make sure your hoses are good. Leaving those sea cocks open all the time may not be the smartest thing to do. Like any bad sea cock it will sink a boat fast if there is a failure and bilge pump be damned, your going down. That said… I hate stained wet moldy stinking boats. Quickstep 24 were generally made with top of the line components so at least there is that!
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234261|2234264&id=101954
I have an electric bilge pump and my transducer is also mounted up front under the water tanks
I am thinking of replacing my 135 headsail this fall. Currently have a sail by Doyle. The material is Durasail. It is probably 15 years old. Has any one used anything more sophisticated, with good results
Mark: I have Doyle sails. I like them. Tried and true dacron. Great shape and holding up well. I am calling Doyle first for a quote when if and when I need new sails. I’d be interested to hear other opinions on materials and makers too though.
Left out the ‘too’ after Doyle sails.
Thanks Chris
I bought a new Doyle loose footed main this year and am very pleased: Durasail Main, 1 Reef, 2 Full Battens, 2 Partial Battens, Luff Slides, Insignia, Sail Bag. $1236 including tax. This was 10% off the quote since it was bought during the slow season. They gave me a quote for a new roller furler 150% genoa 5.4 oz supercruise with suncover that was $1173 (excluding seasonal 10% discount and MA tax)
On the topic of water in the cockpit, I don’t get any water in mine and I don’t carry any water in my fore tank nor worry much about crew placement. My engine mount/bulkhead is a composite material and is well sealed.
Thanks Justin. I’ll check out their prices this fall. How far back does the 150 come. Does the jib track still work? I am guessing what I have is a 135 but now I am not sure.
Yes, the jib tracks still work with the 150 and I think I am either at or a notch or 2 away from the stern end of the track. I am heading down to Cape Cod later in the week for a sail and I can take a picture and/or get a visual. I like having the 150 and Nantucket Sound is generally windy with the boat regularly sailing at hull speed while reaching but I have no point of comparison with how or whether the boat would sail better with a 135, but would welcome others thoughts. Maybe the 135 might be better upwind
I would love to see a picture of the boat under sail. We sometimes find we are overpowered with the 135 and roll it down to a 100 %. My email is markprueser@verizon.net
Thanks Justin.
Hello All
just purchased Q24 #169 in Marblehead and sailed her up to her new homeport in Newburyport. Noticed a lot of water in the cockpit when under power, quickly drained when under sail or on mooring. Is the bulkhead motor mount meant to be watertight?
Thanks for your insight.
Lee
Hello Lee…The 24’s ‘transom’ is meant to be water tight. You can caulk around the edge of the wood from the aft side of the wood transom. Remove the old crap first. There are other things which will cause what you describe.
Did you have 2 or more people or a lot of weight aft in the cockpit while motoring? Distribute the crew forward to keep the boats trim better. The boat is happiest with the crew closer to the cabin. Fill your water tank too…this helps level the boat.
Is the motor adjusted correctly? Assuming that you have an outboard you may have the pin that positions the motors shaft in the wrong place causing the engine thrust to cause the boat to squat. Better to have the prop angled level or slightly down to help with boat trim.
Lastly, was the water coming up through the upper rudder shaft tube? If so, pull your tiller forward and then push it aft and see how much play there is in the tube. If there is more than a little, then water will come up through the play. This can be stopped by inserting sacrificial strips of plastic into the tube, closing the gap and making water intrusion difficult.
Under sail or motoring the outboard well should not be under water. Some water sloshing around under power is normal but not a constant number of inches in there. Under sail the whole outboard motor well should be clear of the water. Anything else means it is time to think about why.
It makes you go slower that you know what having poor trim like that. Motivation there.
Thanks Chris
I will definitely check those things out.
I have a wood block at the top of the rudder shaft tube. Is this a usual installation?
I think the water is coming around the bulkhead.
Lee, the block is the standard config. Under your tiller casting there is a composite washer that goes over the tiller post and sits on the block. Shaft tube extends into and to the top of the block. Water comes up there if wear is present. Hard to see once things are wet. Keep a look out. I had both the rudder tube and the leaky motor mounting wood problems. The screws on my bulkhead wood were loose too causing the wood pieces to move a bit while under power. Had to borrow a friend with real long arms to get behind there through the access covers (if you have them) and hold the nuts with a pliers while I tightened the screws. That and re-caulking did it and it has been good for over 10 years now.
Regarding motor position, my opinion is that you get the best trim with the motor adjusted so the motor shaft is as close to the rudder as you can get it while still maintaining clearance to steer with the motor working hard. There is inevitably some flex in the transom when the motor is running which can cause the motor shaft to move forward and enter the rudders turning arc space. Not good. Motor shaft just aft of that is best again, in my opinion.
Yes, you should definitely seal the bulkhead mount!! Good luck and congrats!!
>
Thanks jkermond
Lee;
The cockpit floor is only 1 or 2″ above the water line. Additional weight in the cockpit or if the boat squats under power the cockpit may take water through the scuppers. This doesn’t happen when sailing , probably due to better trim. or due to heel. Nothing you can do about this except improve the trim or close the cockpit drain seacocks if you are going to motor a long distance.
Dave