Scuttlebutt

Racing on Clinton Lake

Ahoy fellow Quickstep owners.  Here is the spot to exchange ideas, questions and answers, and your latest news with other Quickstep owners.  If you have photos or stories to post on the site, please email them to  Quickstep21@gmail.com

84 comments

  1. Recently purchased a Quickstep 24, “SOL,” 1988. Currently, on stands in E. Boston. Just finished the bottom sanding. More to follow as I get to know her.

    1. Welcome Bill! Check over the q24 fleet area of this site for all 24 comments. Uou gave to scroll down to the very bottom to add comments…only takes a few seconds at most.

  2. I need a new outboard- what size shaft is best? Has anyone bought the ” sail pro” models? With alternator ling shaft and larger prop? Thoughts?

  3. Quickstep 24 owners:

    Does anyone have experience adding a boom vang to a Q24? I have just begun sailing a 24 out of Edgartown, MA. The daily routine involves running out into Nantucket Sound to set up an exhilarating beat for home. Off the wind, the mainsail shape is frustrating, as the boom rises and the sail plows against the spreaders. There is not much vertical clearance between the boom and the cabin top, and a vang at such a shallow angle will develop a great deal of force. What are the pros and cons? How are the end fastenings achieved? Is there concern for the strength of the gooseneck? Your insights will be much appreciates

    1. Don: aside from a vang assm. (blocks and line, don’t go overboard,1/4″ line is more than you will ever need) you need a boom bail, I think Ronstan makes a nice collection at the best prices. and the lower vang attachment for the DM500 mast section which used to be available from Dwyer Mast but I am not seeing it on their site any more. Try giving them a call and see what they can do or suggest. Other sources are available though will require more study I like my vang setup but use it only occasionally in constant winds. It is good for downwind as you suggest but you must pay strict attention for the unintentional gybe more than ever because the boom is now riding very low and will take you teeth out in a jiffy. Or worse.
      associated links
      https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=20&cat1Name=Masts&familyID=43&familyName=DM%2D500+Mast
      https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=9&familyName=Bails

      The gooseneck is not a concern at all assuming you have the standard Q setup.

  4. I bought a Quickstep 24 late in the season 2017 on Deer Isle Me (within eyesight of the Brooklin Boat Yard). ’88 Hull 155. Does anyone know which manufacturer built this one? I think there were 4 builders over the years. BTW, you can buy the original build plans by Ted Brewer. He is in his upper 80’s now and will sell the complete set of build plans, which are the full sized drawings for about $100. I ordered a set and they are due to me next week. Should be interesting. Dave G

    1. LNUKS=Quickstep Yachts

      Your hull ID number HIN tells it all.

      The last numbers are the year of birth. The first letters are the builder. Q24’s were built by several builders. See the following website to understand HIN numbers http://www.hinsearchplus.com/hs_userguide.aspx
      See this website for list of builders. http://uscgboating.org/content/manufacturers-identification.php
      Quickstep 24’s were built by several builders mostly Dyer, C.E. Ryder, and a few by Shannon and the last ones by Quickstep which was really a builder name given for boats built by TPI (tillotson pearson) who is the builder of Jboats and many others. No longer building boats however they moved on to higher tech stuff.
      So given this and the websites above you can find Dyer which is really the Anchorage has a builder code of DYE.
      C.E. Ryder has a builder code of CER
      Shannon has a builder code of NHN…long story basically someone already had SBC in 1975.
      Lastly LNUKS builder code is Quickstep Yachts.

    2. Dave, regarding HIN,s, the last numbers are the year of birth. The first letters are the builder. See the following website to understand HIN numbers http://www.hinsearchplus.com/hs_userguide.aspx
      See this website for list of builders. http://uscgboating.org/content/manufacturers-identification.php
      Quickstep 24’s were built by several builders mostly Dyer, C.E. Ryder, and a few by Shannon and the last ones by Quickstep which was really a builder name given for Quickstep boats built by TPI (tillotson pearson) who is the builder of Jboats and many others including early Alerion 28’s.. No longer building boats however they moved on to higher tech stuff like giant windmilll generator blades etc.
      So given this and the websites above you can find Dyer which is really the Anchorage has a builder code of DYE.
      C.E. Ryder has a builder code of CER
      Shannon has a builder code of NHN…long story basically someone already had SBC in 1975.
      Lastly LNUKS builder code is Quickstep Yachts.

  5. QUICKSTEP 21 for sale in Mass. 6300USD
    I know nothing about 21’s but thought I’d post the link. Basic bleach bottle looks with trailer.

  6. My 6 hp 2 stroke was getting old and was quite loud so I upgraded to 8 hp Merc 4 stroke but it is almost as bad. I think the motor cavity is an echo chamber- even motoring w/ the lid up it is so loud. Has anyone applied sound deadening material to the insides? I have researched and seen some peel & stick foam sheets for this purpose (for autos and industrial applications) Any thoughts?

    1. James, I was given some engine box lining material by a friend some years ago which I used for a season. It was an egg crate type of foam mounted on a brown backing which was said to be lead sound deadening material. I cut it to shape and used contact cement to cover the underside of the well cover. Results were noticable but not so great. At the time I had a H onda 8, the older model, a BF 8. After a while the contact cement gave out from the heat of the sun on the cover and the engines heat too so I removed it intending to work on improving it but never did. I subsequently bought a Tohatsu 8hp engine which is was even noiser than the Honda. I also tried a canvas shield which hung down from the leading edge of the well cover but found the engine was suffocating and ended up deep sixing that too. So, in the end, I have a new and noisier Tohatsu which I just learned to enjoy the sound of. I call it the ‘sound of quality’. On a side note, there is a small hole where exhaust comes out of the engine shaft before it begins exiting underwater as well as when it is exhausting under water too. That small hole is the source of a lot of the noise. Its a sort of relief valve I think so there is not a lot of backpressure at low rpm. I thought of blocking it but engines all make too much noise and I just regard them as a necessary evil at this point. Torqueedo time?

      1. Thanks for saving me the time and effort! Someday a Torqueedo will probably do the job. I saw a refit of a Q 24 on long Island where the guy had a diesel inboard installed- pretty cool but it cost more than i paid for my entire boat!

  7. I’ve just listed my Quickstep 24 on boats.com. .The boat has been repainted with a navy blue algrip in 2016 , has a permanent head, a Yamaha 9.9 engine with low hours , a new asymmetrical sail , new rolling furler , all teak is maintained yearly , custom teak table and cushions for the cockpit. The boat is in Oyster Bay , NY
    Contact Johnbquirk@yahoo.com

  8. Hi Bill,

    It has been a long time, but finally the Quickstep21 is on stands at a marina. Unfortunately there is no pin or any hardware to hold the centerboard in place. Since there are no instructions to be found anywhere as far as I know, the marina is going to set the centerboard based on their experience with other boats. I hope that is good enough.

    The jib sail is on a roller furling and the sail is torn to bits. The jib sheet in/on the roller furling is stuck at the top and I have been unable to lower the sail. I did not have time to figure it out when I was there and the marina is a long way away. I will not be able to get back o the marina for about two weeks and I would like to work on getting a new/used jib now. So can anyone tell me what size jib need?

    Any information will be helpful.

    Thanks,
    Tom

  9. Bill

    Thank you for posting the article. And thanks to Steve Bodine for his help.

    The sail number is 16 unless the Q on the sail is upside down; then its boat #91. Its #16.

    The pictures in your keel/centerboard article are great for me. I did not know how the swing keel pin (rod/bar) was held in place since I have never seen the bottom of the boat. The pictures appear to show plates (pivot blocks?) screwed to the bottom of the fixed part of the keel that I assume hold each end of the pivot pin in place.

    I just measured the pin hole in my swing keel (the keel was in a shed and has never been installed) and the dia. of the hole is about 63/64. That makes a pretty tight fit if the pin is supposed to be one inch dia.

    Do you remember what size the pin is and, even though you did not need a new one, where do you get a new one? I suppose marinas have them in stock?

    Is there any kind of sleeve installed in the hole in the swing keel before installing the pin?

    You thought about it, but did not install the plastic washer spacers. What are your thoughts now?

    The cord attached to the swing keel must be the pendant you replaced? I assume the pendant cord is supposed to run through the hole in the floor in the cockpit near the cabin entrance and I assume a cleat or a cam. All I have is a hole in the floor. It’s hard to believe the boat originally came this way, but it must have.

    Something else funny – the cabin entrance was a single piece of very weathered and delaminated plywood. When I cleaned the boat I found in one of the storage holes, a three piece door wrapped in pieces of rug. It was brand new, never used. Why?

    I emailed someone who is selling a Quickstep 21 in Canada to see if he has an owner’s manual. No answer so far.

    Hope I am not asking too many questions.

    Tom

    1. Hi again Tom,

      Here are some random thoughts for you.

      First, is the centerboard pin on the boat? You mentioned that you’d not seen the bottom of the keel. Maybe the former owner removed the centerboard but replaced the pin in the keel for “safekeeping.” It’s possible. Maybe you’ll be lucky.

      As for spacers, I don’t know if Dick (the fellow who wrote the article) ever got around to adding them. I don’t have any on my boat and the centerboard slapping can be annoying at times. Yet, I share the concern about the board getting stuck up or down. We fight Zebra mussels and they can get in everywhere. For the time being, I’m leaving things as they are. I had the boat hoisted for a keel and board inspection a year ago and all was fine.

      The centerboard pendant does run through the tube out into the cockpit. On our boat there is a simple cleat right above the point where the tube exits the cockpit sole. It’s on the after edge of what passes as a bridge deck or step. It’s not in the way there and works fine.

      Sounds like you found the boat’s real weather boards. That’s lucky. We use ours all the time. I do have a plywood panel that I made to use when I’m refinishing the teak boards. Otherwise, I like the three piece units.

      We bought our boat new, and there was no owners’ manual. You’ll just have to keep a notebook of material that you discover. One of the joys of good old boat ownership!

      Cheers,
      Bill

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