There are many beautiful Q24s sailing about, so it’s only right and proper that we have a page devoted to them. So here we are! If you own a 24, you’re welcome to post. I’m happy to add pictures, too. To post a new comment, you’ll have to scroll to the very bottom of this page- all the way down. I’ve managed to change the formatting to display just the newest comments first, so scrolling down is no longer so tedious. All of the older comments are still here though. Just follow the link at the bottom of this page.
Quickstep Owners' Group 
Hey folks, I just picked up my first sailboat, a 1986 quickstep 24! She’s hull 109 and in fair
condition. I’ve noticed a couple things here and there that look like modifications a former
owner has done. One of these changes is the tracks that hold the pulleys for the jib sheets are missing and instead a pulley on a plate was installed through the deck. I’d like to reinstall the tracks to get the pulleys back to their original position but l’m hoping someone knows if they are just fastened to the teak on the edge? Or if they bolt through the teak AND the deck for a plate backing below?
Thank you!
The sheet tracks are bolted through the teak coaming and the deck. The coaming is through bolted as well all around the boat and then the bolt heads are bunged. The coaming and all holes are sealed with 3M 4200 sealant
Look below deck over the quarter berths, you’ll see the bolt / nuts for the coaming , lots of them! 1/4 x 20 bolts. People do some strange things with their boats.
The track is available and reasonable it’s 3/4″. All Q’24s i have seen use Schaefer gear. The Schaefer track should match you existing holes in the coaming unless someone buggered that up too.
https://www.westmarine.com/sail-tracks-travelers-leads/
West shows them on clearance, I hope Schaffer did not discontinue the sku.
Hey thank you! Do you know if any of the quicksteps came without the track? As far as I can tell it looks like the coaming has no previous holes. They may have replaced it during their modification, though.
Been hearing about a number of Q24 finish levels here lately I had never heard of or seen. I may not understand your particular setup from the description but I’d rather the track even with its shortcomings though a more onboard cleat would be nice for beating upwind.
Replacing a coaming correctly is a complex job. Some steaming, some lamination and careful milling.,sealing, bolting, finishing…..Doable but a labor of love. Big$$$!
Perhaps other owners can assist.
Hey folks, I just picked up my first sailboat, a 1986 quickstep 24! She’s hull 109 and in fair condition. I’ve noticed a couple things here and there that look like modifications a former owner has done. One of these changes is the tracks that hold the pulleys for the jib sheets are missing and instead a pulley on a plate was installed through the deck. I’d like to reinstall the tracks to get the pulleys back to their original position but I’m hoping someone knows if they are just fastened to the teak on the edge? Or if they bolt through the teak AND the deck for a plate backing below? Thank you!
How long is your job sheet with a 135% Genoa?
Our boat has 1/2” Sta Set – 64 feet long! Seems likeit could be 57 feet of 7/16” / 11mm
Who made that? We have brackets on the deck.
We installed 58 feet of 7/16” Sta Set. More than long enough.
Also started a group on Facebook to post pictures of our restoration of #15.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/251745301022076
Looks like you have your Harken cleat on your winch island mounted facing the wrong way. Depending in how your sheet wraps the winch, a cam cleat may not hold the line coming from the top wrap down to the cam cleat anyway. Probably won’t. Those OE Schaefer cleats leave little to desire.
That’s better!
Have you posted pictures of your boat?
Dana SeeroBoston
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Anyone know how to rig a boarding ladder on the Q24 canoe stern?
Theres too much overhang at the stern . I rigged mine about a foot aft of the winch station. Its a FoldAway permanently mounted. I can send pics if you give me your e-mail address.
Thanks Dave, I’d like a picture. My email is johndyson@johndyson.com
I would love a ladder picture as well, John. Thanks
jkermond@gmail.com
Guys. Don’t know where my pics disappeared to. Give me a day to go take some new pictures.
Hi, Dave I replied to your email but the mail didn’t work as your optonline account is near a mail size limit.
Hi Dave, no rush of course but please add my address to your list for a photo of your boarding ladder. Thanks. chasemcc@verizon.net John McCann
Planning to start a Quickstep 24 group
Umm …. Your posting on the best one around!
So you think having more groups talking about the boat is bad?
Having built a number of One Design Fleets, my experience is entirely different.
Sorry, I’ve tried everything to fix the problem & my IT person is on vacation ‘till the 15th.
John…please go with Dave P’s setup. It was well planned. The last thing you need is the stern doing the hobby horse while you under it with that outboard skeg trying to split your skull. Bad way to go.
We have a boarding ladder that hooks into permanent brackets mounted on the deck, but the ladder itself is removable. I agree you can’t mount it on the stern – ours is just forward of the winch station. I added couple photos here: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B16532ODWvWsRs
I never really thought about the icloud. Never checked it out online either. Your post / link opened my eyes. Its very useful in the way you used it in your post …Thanks!
I noticed some chatter recently on inboards. I guess I never got the word that inboards were not meant for passages as I’ve logged several passages running the diesel 10-12 hours a day. My question is: dies anybody know how to remove the prop? Theres not enough room in the aperature to slide the prop off the shaft.
Hi Dave,
I don’t have any info specific to Q24, but with many boats you have to remove the rudder. Having recently pulled the prop on an IP27 I found a heavy duty 3 legged puller borrowed from O’Reilly auto parts and cycles of heat and penetrating oil to be effective.
Thanks John. Thats what I figured but thought someone could relate their experience in a QS24 before I get started.
Hello,
I’m going to look at a QS 24 this weekend in CT. A some point a bow sprit and chain bob stay was added allowing for 2 head sails. The fore stay mounts to to the bow sprit about 2 feet inboard from the bow. The jib stay has the furling drum.
Has anyone encountered this modification? I’m doubting it was a factory mod but it could have been. The boat is a 1978 Stannard. I would include a picture but I ant see how to do that.
thanks
Jim
Early on the boat was offered with two head sails, cutterish, so it could be original. I can’t imagine anyone retrofitting for this. You might check to confirm that the mast is in its usual location and the standard height
Thanks John
I’m glad to hear that it have been a factory offering. It looks to be very professionally done. I can only tell from pictures but the mast step location does not appear to have changed.
Also, would you know if the early boats would have came without bow or stern pulpits, stations and lifelines? This boat does not have these. But from the pics there are no “scars” from a prior removal job.
I came across an early brochure online not too long ago from when Stannard was building them, that’s when I noticed the cutter option. I know with Ryder the stern pulpit and lifelines are optional but I never seen one without a bow pulpit from that time onward.
Jim, I looked at an old Q up in the middle of CT 20 yrs ago before I bought mine. It was a 78 too. What I remember most about it is the interior. Only V up front and the rest of the cabin was mostly what appeared at the time to be oversized cabinetry and counters. The woodwork topside was poor too. I passed on it.. I didn’t think it had near the appeal of the later boats Ryder,Dyer, Quickstep. Never saw a Shannon..think they made 3, or are Unicorns. Maybe this one in Ct. was sold as a bare hull DIY boat which I read about here lately which was new to me. These would have no stanchions, pulpits etc. Regarding the cutter rig I feel the boat was designed by Brewer as a sloop and trying to make it otherwise would only result in an unbalanced rig. Mast placement more forward or aft is part of the boat being a cutter design or not. You probably can’t just bolt on a sprit and have a cutter. Some poorly designed boats benefit by an added sprit to compensate for weather helm. A Compact 23 is one that was originally built without the sprit and was very unbalanced. The Q24 is beautifully balanced as designed. I can set my tiller and sail for miles with barely any attention in a steady breeze.
I vaguely remember someone on this site asking about adding a sprit years ago. You can go to the earlier posts and read thru. I’d say 5 years ago …..about. Pickup some other info along the way but mostly same questions being asked today as then. People don’t like to read I guess.
I think I’d pass on it unless it’s a steal or you’re really into that cutter look or want to remove the sprit and stay. The boat just doesn’t need two head sails with a good furler and 3 main reefing points.
A boat needs the bow pulpit and lifelines which ain’t cheap to fabricate. If you buy the boat I’d suggest stanchions 4″ taller than stock.. The stern pulpit is unnecessary given the engine well. I don’t have one.. Never missed it. Makes boarding easier, fishing too.
My opinions of course!
Does anyone know what the fuel tank capacity is for a Q24 with an inboard?
Thanks.
9 gal
Thanks, Dave!
Does anyone keep track of hull numbers and can decode the serial number? My new-to-me Q24 is registered as a 1990, so I suspect it was registered in the calender year after it was manufactured, if production stopped in ’89. Anyway it is LNUKS202D090. Also, it is an inboard. Anyway, any info is appreciated.
Steve,
If the HIN is stamped into the transom it was placed there by the manufacturer. You can look it up using various apps. Since “Q’s” and “O’s” aren’t used in HIN’s for obvious reasons, Quicksteps get a little complicated. Your reads LNU (Quickstep USA, Bill Lannigan owned the molds, bought them from Stannard and made them at various yards), KS202 (Model and hull number 202), and D090 (April 1990.) The history of the boat is a bit confused so the end of production in 1989 with hull 200 are soft numbers. Enjoy!
Joe Benedict
s/v Glory Days
Thank you Joe, just the info I was looking for.
I guess we know at least 202 were made and at least into 1990. Any idea how many qere inboards?
Steve,
The information I have on Q24’s is from several hours of internet search when I bought mine, so I am not an expert. The only references I have found indicates that motors were installed for docking and maneuvering (not passage) and inboards were installed in only earlier years. A quick search found a Q24 was for sale in Michigan but it was an outboard. The AI’s on the current search engines are amazing, and evolving, but don’t forget to practice safe surfing.
Joe
Well, clearly inboards were not just early boats since mine is a 1990 and there is another on the Chesapeake that is late ’80s.
Looking to buy a Q24. I’m located on Chesapeake Bay, but distance not necessarily a problem. Any leads appreciated, now or later; I figure this might be a lengthy search.
Have decent Albin 27 FC as partial trade or for sale if anyone’s interested.
Posted two weeks ago on “Sailing Texas” site:
4/24/23, 1988 Quickstep 24, Ithaca, New York, $8,500
https://sailingtexas.com/202301/quickstep24101.html
I have not been looking to sell, but I have a Quickstep 24 that is on Middle River I
On the Chesapeake. . My storage costs have recently increased and I would consider selling it. It needs some work, but is generally in good shape. Let me know if you might be interested?
Steve,
Did you find a boat? Are you
Interested in looking at mine?
Hi Bruce,
Thanks for the response. I’m interested. Tell me about your boat.
Thanks.
Steve
410-212-3468 text and voice
Hi all, another question about rigging. I’m mounting a winch on the cabin top for the main halyard. I noticed some boats have a single rope clutch and others have a double. Is the second one for a boom vang? mainsail downhaul? Also does anyone know where I can find a listing of the length and diameter of all the running rigging? I’ve got nothing to copy. Thank you for your help.
I have 2 Spinlock triples. Lines led from mast through pulleys in mast plate to Harken organizers. A single is a trip hazard and dimensionally unstable in my opin. Triples are compact and with 2 there’s little need to leave the cockpit. Main halyard, jib halyard, asymmetrical halyard, topping lift, lazy jack, vang, etc. It’s all right there!
Regarding rigging I would be hesitant to give you measurements because my mast is on a hinged step and a mast plate which lengthened the stays all all around a bit. Possibly http://www.riggingonly.com/ has some stock boat info…theyre a great resource in any event though you must be patient with the website/s.
Mast is DM500 section from Dwyer https://www.dwyermast.com/Default.asp
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=20&cat1Name=Masts&familyID=43&familyName=DM%2D500+Mast
They have most everything available.
Thanks for the info on ce ryder / southern cross. I like those 28’s!
ChrisD, thanks, I admire your level of deck organization and the rationale behind it. I was looking for what length and diameter lines for the running rigging, I’ve got a set of standing rigging to work with.
Cheers,
john
Tried to reply twice but no luck getting posted.
John: I use 5/16 or 3/8 and double braided only. Both lines are strong enough to hang the boat in mid air so any larger is certainly overkill as far as strength goes. Nice to keep any extra weight up and down the mast to a minimum too. I use Sampson and New England lines and find the Sampson Trophy and NE Sta-Set lines to be good and very reasonable for all but mainsheet and a few other bits. Stays supple for years in salt and sun. As far a length, I buy a hundred fifty feet or more and cut and splice eyes as needed. Sampson has good splicing guide online for double braids etc. My mainsheet is a Sampson line with a fuzzy feel, I forget the name. I use that for reefing lines too as it holds a tie better even a simple bow. Forgot to mention i also have an Andersen #10 winch in front of each spinlock triple. Wouldnt want to buy at todays prices. Triples were 99$ and winches 60$ Harken organizers 40$ just 6 or seven years ago.
https://www.riggingandhardware.com/c-1283-by-the-foot.aspx
Regarding you motor post..Hondas are substantially quieter. I have an 8 Toe and if I were to need another it would be a basic 20″ Honda with an alternator only.
ChrisD, thank again for your advice about lines and a motor. I’m going with a Tohatsu 6 sail pro for the weight and the prop, but I’ll mostly be daysailing. Perhaps the volume will encourage me to sail on and off my mooring.